3 hours ago, Racer X said:

Using a DVOM, check for continuity between the terminals, and from terminals to ground.  There should be continuity between the terminals. There should not be continuity from any terminal to ground. 

Seems like many of us aren't reading other people's posts.  Much repeating of advice, but, of course, the many threads on the same topic aren't helping at all.

Shawninvancouver is definitely jumping around, but he has done a few things that have identified things that definitely need fixing.  

14 minutes ago, Shawninvancouver said:

Maybe the whole issue is bad ballast. 

Was.  But your distributor misalignment and spark plug wire mess wouldn't be related to a bad ballast resistor.

You should make a list of each problem and how to fix it.  You have several things that you need to do just get the engine started.  There will be more problems to solve to get it running right.  There's not going to be one thing that makes everything work right.

And don't start any new threads.

No new threads.  Today’s job get tdc. Hook up plugs right.  Put in dizzy correct Check ballast resistor. Follow wire diagram in fsm.  See if I get spark.  

1 minute ago, Shawninvancouver said:

No new threads.  Today’s job get tdc. Hook up plugs right.  Put in dizzy correct Check ballast resistor. Follow wire diagram in fsm.  See if I get spark.  

Oh. Ya.  And if it was the ballast then I would never get a spark.   That’s possibly why last owner was messing with dizzy.  

Ohhh. Just to make sure my coil will work ok and not fry things. Are these specs ok? We had used this in another 240 and all was ok.  

How original owner had this wired up.  Maybe to bypass ballast ?? Before I put in new coil and wired properly. 

ok -so for testing purposes i would put the  white black form the right post to the middle post? will this not get overly hot? will it reduce voltage enough to not fry anything?? 

will it be ok for white / black and black/blue to be on same post?

coil.MOV

Edited June 10, 20213 yr by Shawninvancouver

ok to test by putting white/black (to coil) on middle post with black/blue - wont be to much voltage?

It will allow more current, but your coil has slightly higher resistance than the stock one so it will even out.  It should be fine for testing.

 

i just watched this video about ballast and coil and he says i should only see power on the last terminal when the engine is cranking..  2:55 of video..

not when the key is in on position..   so was my ballast acting correct when i was testing for electricity with my test light???

   

Edited June 10, 20213 yr by Shawninvancouver

This may help in some way. It's from the ZX dizzy swap but shows the ballast resistor you eventually remove.

From Blues Tech Tips. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Next step is to see which of the two back w blue striped wires to the center ballast connector "R" is NOT +12V.
Disconnect both and turn key over to "start" while checking voltage on each. The one without the voltage goes to a capacitor (aka condenser).
Mark the other one with +12V with red tape.

 

yes i have seen that but its a 4 post and mine is a 3 post...  not sure whats on the extra post.    all i really want to know is  -  should i see some sort of power on all 3 posts when i  turn the key to the power position - or only power to 3 on start car ignite position???

Edited June 10, 20213 yr by Shawninvancouver