The wiring diagram (and the construction of the ballast resistor itself) says that you should see voltage on all three terminals if any of them show voltage.  Because they are all connected.  If you remove the ballast resistor and flip it over, like you were going to do last night, you will find that the dead terminal is disconnected from the other two, either because the wire is broken or burnt, or because the screw came loose.

There is a short path for starting (the middle terminal) and a long path for running (the end terminal).

 

With power on I had 10v to all 3 posts on ballast and 10v on both coil posts.  No spark.  Engine was tdc compression stroke. cam lobes point up as seen through oil cap.  Rotor points to 1 spot. Must narrow it to transistor unit or dizzy. 

  On 6/11/2021 at 2:27 AM, Shawninvancouver said:

With power on I had 10v to all 3 posts on ballast and 10v on both coil posts.  No spark.  Engine was tdc compression stroke. cam lobes point up as seen through oil cap.  Rotor points to 1 spot. Must narrow it to transistor unit or dizzy. 

Wired this way. 

You might have a short to ground on the blue wire from the coil negative post.  Or the ignition module is shorted internally.

Unplug the ignition module and take your measurements again.  That will remove the ignition module from the picture.  The voltage measured should be battery voltage.  Make sure the battery is 12.6 or greater.

If you have a short to ground you won't get any spark.  It's also bad for your ignition parts.

Ya battery was super weak. Only 10v on the battery.   So should all 5 spots show voltage or not?

That is actually good then.  All 5 spots should show the same voltage and it should be battery voltage.  Your wiring looks correct at the ballast and coil, as far as power supply.  Get the distributor back in and wired right and you might get some spark.

In your recent post you said that you didn't get spark but you didn't say how you tested it.  Spark only happens when the current flow through the coil is interrupted.

i think the problem is from this.....  

It might be.  But from where you're at now it will be easy to find out.  You have your wiring to the coil correct.  Get that distributor back in and the spark plug wires right.  No need to jump the gun. 

Charge the battery.

zed  - i did that. i once again had the dizzy out.. made sure the car was at tdc - compression stroke.. had the plug wires all new and in correct..  and no spark.....  F@@@ - this is insane..   battery was working when i started this now its like dead.. wont even turn over....  need to charge battery -  and just put in the 280zx matchbox dizzy and get rid rid of all that junk.. no more headaches.....

Here is ballast and coil.   IMG_2859.MOV IMG_2859.MOV

IMG_2859.MOV

  On 6/11/2021 at 3:11 AM, Zed Head said:

In your recent post you said that you didn't get spark but you didn't say how you tested it

 

Hi zed. I tested it by trying to start the car. I also put my screwdriver with bulb in end of coil to see if it would light up.  Nothing. Should there be power coming out end of coil or only when try to start car?  I was going to hold end of coil wire to ground on car to look for spark but I tried that on another car a while ago and got one hell of a zap. So I didn’t wanna do that.  I’m sure if a plug got spark I would hear the car start. Put gas in plug hole. Etc.  No luck.  Whatever triggers the coil is no triggering it to send a spark out.  Either electronic unit or maybe dizzy pickup??? But power to coil. And no spark.