Now on the opposite side of lucky a s s me here's my 240 original paint after a good buff out.

 

48 minutes ago, Wyo240 said:

I’ve been thinking about doing some body work (small rust spots mainly) and getting an exterior respray (?) or quick paint job, something that hopefully matches the under hood factory color. The car is 90% original from Southern California and the clear coat has definitely disappeared in some places. Would this hinder the opportunity to sell my Z as a “survivor” later down the road?

Pic for reference

I think it's original.

40 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Went down and took a few pics for you to compare your's too. Hope it helps determine if it's  OE paint?

 

Looks like that! I have much to learn! Every car I’ve owned before this has had clear coat so I just thought that was the norm. I was my fathers car in the 70’s and he never painted it, then it sat in the sun for a very long time. 

34 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I think it's original.

Thanks! Any suggestions as what I should do to get it looking shiny and new?

 

Edit: Sorry I just saw your previous post. I like the patina too and I’m not dropping $$$ into it at this point. It’s my weekend cruiser for the summer 🙂

Edited June 16, 20213 yr by Wyo240

I’d try some Meguiar’s #7 Show Car Glaze. Really good with old single stage paint, but it can be a work out.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/100613-7-rub-down-technique-mike-phillips.html

If you don’t know Autogeek, it’s a great site with tons of good information on detailing and well moderated with friendly people and very little childish BS.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took a pic for reference. Any thoughts?

 

Looks it's down to the primer like my 280. You can wax it up and live with it or get it painted. $5,000 for a good paint job around here. There's the "shake and bake" Maaco painters.

https://www.maaco.com/

5 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Looks it's down to the primer like my 280. You can wax it up and live with it or get it painted. $5,000 for a good paint job around here. There's the "shake and bake" Maaco painters.

https://www.maaco.com/

Thanks for all your insight, I really appreciate it! Probably just gonna rock it! Doesn’t look half bad in pics from 30 feet 😂

I worked in a body shop way back in my teens. People would come in about once a week, having gotten a Spray King or a MAACO $150 special (this was the early 1970’s), wanting to get the extremely poor paint job redone. Most left disappointed when we told them the cost to completely strip and start over, and do a proper refinish of their car. Even then, material alone was double or more what the scuff and blow places charged for everything. 

One woman came in with a 1950’s T Bird. She had just picked it up ad Spray King, stopped at the store for groceries on her way home and walking back to her car notice that the paint had peeled off of most of the passenger side door and fender. She cried when we gave her the estimate.

People find out I know body and paint and ask how much.

 I tell them they can’t afford me,

These days material will cost a couple thousand bucks, add the labor and a complete paint job will run $6,000 or more, if you can find a body shop that does complete paint jobs. They make their money doing crash repair.

 

There is no such thing as a quick paint job. Go cheap, and cuss it every time you see it. 

Spend the money up front to do it right, and cuss it once, then love it for many years to come.

 

 

Edited June 17, 20213 yr by Racer X

2 hours ago, Wyo240 said:

Thanks for all your insight, I really appreciate it! Probably just gonna rock it! Doesn’t look half bad in pics from 30 feet 😂

Yes! It does look good 90% of the time. Rock that baby until the tires fall off.

 

22 hours ago, Wyo240 said:

I’ve been thinking about doing some body work (small rust spots mainly) and getting an exterior respray (?) or quick paint job, something that hopefully matches the under hood factory color. The car is 90% original from Southern California and the clear coat has definitely disappeared in some places. Would this hinder the opportunity to sell my Z as a “survivor” later down the road?

Pic for reference

I didn't read all of this thread completely but there's a lot of misinformation here. Any S30 that had Metallic paint WAS TWO STAGE from the factory. Solid colors (nonmetallic) were single stage enamel. 

If (where) your CLEARCOAT is gone or peeling off you will NOT get good results trying to buff it! You can't buff basecoat and get a good result. You need to either leave your paint as is or have the car repainted - especially since you're dealing with silver.

On 6/16/2021 at 6:22 PM, siteunseen said:

Now on the opposite side of lucky a s s me here's my 240 original paint after a good buff out.

 

I'm going to need a Certificate of Authenticity. 😆