In the first picture, that looks like a green/white and red/blue into a T 2 conductor connector female for the heater control's light. I also have a similar connector but with green/white and red that is not plugged in right now. 

Edited June 26, 20213 yr by Jeff Berk

The second picture shows a 3-contact connector with only the top and bottom connectors used, both wires are green. If so, that might be the map light above the vents.

For the other connector in the 2nd picture, how many contact positions, how many are actually used, and what are the wire colors?

I don't know if this helps or makes it more complicated, but here's a chart I started a few years ago. It's never been QC'ed so be forewarned. 

As an example on how to read this, the "Turn Signal" circuit is on page BE-11, involves junction connectors C-2, 3, 4, and 5, Fuse #3,  which is 10 Amps, uses white, green and black wires (specifically white/red, green/red, green/black, black, and black/white).

The way I've used this is to try and match up the colors, then go the the FSM page BE-xx to read the wiring diagram.

		Junction	Fuse		Wire Color (primary, secondary)
System	Page (BE-)	Block Connectors	No.	Amp	Red	White	Green	Blue	Yellow	Black
Head Light	10	1345	1	10	R, RB, RW	W, WR
Head Light	10	7	2	10	R, RB, RW, RY	W, WR
Turn Signal	11	2345	3	10		WR	GR, GB			B, BW
Haz Warning	12	12346	11	10	WR	GW				BY
Stop Lamp	13	26	11	10		W, WR				B, BW
Clearance & Tail Lmp	14	1256	5	20		W, WR	GW			B
Reverse Lamp	15	3567	9	20	RB	W, WR		LB
Meter Lights	16	246	5	20	RL	W, WR	GL, GW			B
Console Lights	17	12346	5	20	RL		GW
Interior Lamp	18	16	6	10	RL, RB	W, WR				B
Glovebox & Cig Lighter Light	19	246	5	20		W, WR	GL, GW			B
Map Light	20	46	6	10	RL	W, WR				B
Tachometer	30	345	3	10		W, WR	G	LB		B, BW
Water Temp/Pressure  Gauge	34	234	3	10		W, WR	G		YB, YW	B, BW
Amperage/Fuel Gauge	35	345	3	10		W, WR	G		Y	B, BW
Brake Warning	36	156	NA	#N/A		W, WR	G, GY			BW
Heater Illumination	53	12346	5	20	RL	W	GR, GW			B
Heater	54	35	8	10		W, WR	G	L, LR, LW
Heater	54	6	13	20		W, WR	G	L, LR, LW
Heater (resistor)	54		NA	#N/A						B
Horn	58	16	10	10		W, WR	G, GB, GR
Washer	64	3457	9	20				LR, LW
Wipers	67	234567	10	10		W, WR		L, LW, LY	Y	B
Lighter	69	146	7	20		W, WR		LW		B
Clock	70	146	6	10	RL	W, WR				B
Window Defogger	74	3567	8	10	R	W, WR		LR, LW		B
Radio	78	357	8	10		W, WB, WR		L, LR, LW		B
Theft Protection	81	146	6	10	RL	W, WR				B
Choke Warning Light	85	357	3	10		W, WR	G			B, BW
Interlock	99	7	14	10		W, WR				B
Ignition	102	35	4	10		WR				BW, BY
Interlock Relay	103	457	NA	#N/A		WR		L, LR		BR, BW, BY
Neutral Switch Warning	105	457	NA	#N/A			LgB	BY		B
Engine Revolution Sensor	106	6	14	10		W, WR				B
Emergency Switch	108	45	NA	#N/A		WR		L	Y, YB	B, BW, BY
Battery (Power Inlet)	106		14	10		W, WR				B
Junction Blocks
Green	C-1
Blue	C-2
Black	C-3
Brown	C-4
Green	C-5
White	C-6
Black	C-7

Can’t be map light.  It works fine.  Could the male bullet red go in the green? Or no way? Are those for an automatic car??

By chance, my center console and radio are out of the car so I can see my wires.

I have a green/white female, and a red/blue male bullet, but they are not being used in my car. I capped off the male to be on the safe side.

That multi-connector, if it's a 6-pin with 5 places used, looks a lot like my radio connector for the OEM radio (see photos). I noticed an in-line fuse in one of your photos so I think someone got creative with the electrical wiring on your car.

When asking questions about where a wire gets plugged into, indicate the number of connectors and wire colors including the color of the stripe if there is one.

Good luck.

Edited June 27, 20213 yr by Jeff Berk
added photographs

55 minutes ago, Jeff Berk said:

I don't know if this helps or makes it more complicated, but here's a chart I started a few years ago. It's never been QC'ed so be forewarned. 

As an example on how to read this, the "Turn Signal" circuit is on page BE-11, involves junction connectors C-2, 3, 4, and 5, Fuse #3,  which is 10 Amps, uses white, green and black wires (specifically white/red, green/red, green/black, black, and black/white).

The way I've used this is to try and match up the colors, then go the the FSM page BE-xx to read the wiring diagram.

		Junction	Fuse		Wire Color (primary, secondary)
System	Page (BE-)	Block Connectors	No.	Amp	Red	White	Green	Blue	Yellow	Black
Head Light	10	1345	1	10	R, RB, RW	W, WR
Head Light	10	7	2	10	R, RB, RW, RY	W, WR
Turn Signal	11	2345	3	10		WR	GR, GB			B, BW
Haz Warning	12	12346	11	10	WR	GW				BY
Stop Lamp	13	26	11	10		W, WR				B, BW
Clearance & Tail Lmp	14	1256	5	20		W, WR	GW			B
Reverse Lamp	15	3567	9	20	RB	W, WR		LB
Meter Lights	16	246	5	20	RL	W, WR	GL, GW			B
Console Lights	17	12346	5	20	RL		GW
Interior Lamp	18	16	6	10	RL, RB	W, WR				B
Glovebox & Cig Lighter Light	19	246	5	20		W, WR	GL, GW			B
Map Light	20	46	6	10	RL	W, WR				B
Tachometer	30	345	3	10		W, WR	G	LB		B, BW
Water Temp/Pressure  Gauge	34	234	3	10		W, WR	G		YB, YW	B, BW
Amperage/Fuel Gauge	35	345	3	10		W, WR	G		Y	B, BW
Brake Warning	36	156	NA	#N/A		W, WR	G, GY			BW
Heater Illumination	53	12346	5	20	RL	W	GR, GW			B
Heater	54	35	8	10		W, WR	G	L, LR, LW
Heater	54	6	13	20		W, WR	G	L, LR, LW
Heater (resistor)	54		NA	#N/A						B
Horn	58	16	10	10		W, WR	G, GB, GR
Washer	64	3457	9	20				LR, LW
Wipers	67	234567	10	10		W, WR		L, LW, LY	Y	B
Lighter	69	146	7	20		W, WR		LW		B
Clock	70	146	6	10	RL	W, WR				B
Window Defogger	74	3567	8	10	R	W, WR		LR, LW		B
Radio	78	357	8	10		W, WB, WR		L, LR, LW		B
Theft Protection	81	146	6	10	RL	W, WR				B
Choke Warning Light	85	357	3	10		W, WR	G			B, BW
Interlock	99	7	14	10		W, WR				B
Ignition	102	35	4	10		WR				BW, BY
Interlock Relay	103	457	NA	#N/A		WR		L, LR		BR, BW, BY
Neutral Switch Warning	105	457	NA	#N/A			LgB	BY		B
Engine Revolution Sensor	106	6	14	10		W, WR				B
Emergency Switch	108	45	NA	#N/A		WR		L	Y, YB	B, BW, BY
Battery (Power Inlet)	106		14	10		W, WR				B
Junction Blocks
Green	C-1
Blue	C-2
Black	C-3
Brown	C-4
Green	C-5
White	C-6
Black	C-7

Really nice idea for a database/practical way to speed up troubleshooting work.

Ya. I see the original radio plug.  They clipped the white black speaker wires and used the blue for power.  Most of my stuff worked on the console but I’m still trying to solve the horn power antenna heater fan gauge lights all have no power. Should I try contact cleaner on fuse box ? And is there a way for me to make sure my horn relay is ok as it’s almost impossible to get out. 

Ohhhh. And does anyone see any fuse in common with horn heater fan power antenna abd gauge lights ???

The test light probably goes out because you're measuring the side with the resistance of the solenoid coil.  When you complete the circuit and the current passes through the contacts the voltage through the solenoid drops too low to light the light.  What kind of test light do you have?

Another way to test the horn relay would be to connect it to one of the horn wires, at the horn location at the front of the car.  Then press the button.  The light should light.  If it does the relay works.

 

 

Horns are dead so I just put test light to horn wire and hit horn. But still no light.  Does that mean relay is the issue ?

Can't be sure.  Not looking good.  If you're getting power at the horn button wire then the connections on the way to the horn wire should be good, they use the same plugs, in and out.  It might be that the light is going out because the solenoid coil is bad.  The heat from grounding the circuit opens the circuit.

Can you trace the green wire from the C-6 connector and see if it gets to the horns?  That would be a clue.

ok  - i will get under there and see if i can trace the wires...  ONE more thing,.. I DID remove the electronic ignition unit when i put in the new dizzy...  does unplugging the Elec ignition box and taking it out of the car effect any other devices or wiring in the car? there is no ground there just a dangling plug... is that ok???

also when testing fuse box i only used tester with light... should i use a multimeter to  see if i am actually getting 122 volts accross??

Edited June 27, 20213 yr by Shawninvancouver