A little of topic but I have tested a product called Revive to refresh the finish of an old steering wheel from my parts car. I was very impressed with the result and there is no greasy feel to the surface. This steering was very grey looking before I started, but I didn't take a picture at that state. I first cleaned the wheel with soap and water and after it was thoroughly dry I applied the product.

Edited July 29, 20213 yr by CanTechZ

2 hours ago, Muzez said:

Going to check out out this week. Is there anything to look out for with regards to the center gearing where the hub connects to the steering wheel? Or with the electrical for the horn? 

The hub should not require any special care or treatment. Remove the horn elements and set them aside for a good cleaning. Strip and clean the spokes and hub for your paint prep. I found that refinishing the rim before painting the spokes and hub worked best for me. This is a fun and satisfying project, looking forward to your results.

This is how mine turned out. Not sure if satin clear would look better than the gloss clear.

I painted the spokes same as the tail light panel. I like it and can always go back to black anytime.

I think it will patina in with use and time

Very nice work, the different treatment on the spokes looks great! What stain did you choose for the rim?

I've been working off and on to make a wood steering wheel from a donner. 

1) I stripped the old foam, sanded and powder coated the steel hub and spokes.

2) Cut up some walnut that sat around for 25+ years, soaked it in Cactus Juice wood stabilizer under vacuum, then let it soak up the juice for a week before baking it.

3) Resawed the wood and created two hexagons from the pieces, glued them together.

4) Made a router jig to cut circles, then cut a grove in the wood for the steel rim to fit in, then used the jig to cut the outside and inside diameters.

5) Glued up the two circles, sandwiching the steel rim and a 1/8-inch sheet of blood wood (also treated with Cactus Juice.

6) Routered a round over on the inside and outside of the steering wheel. Screwed up once breaking a 1/4-inch router bit and ripping out a bit of wood.

7) Sanded, sanded, and sanded.

😎 Finished with wipe on varnish.

Now I'm waiting on someone to train me in using a Haas Mini Mill to make a new center coin for the padded horn button.

 

Nice work.

5 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

Now I'm waiting on someone to train me in using a Haas Mini Mill to make a new center coin for the padded horn button.

You've got access to one of those? That would be really sweet!

13 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

Finished with wipe on varnish.

NICE! I did a simular wheel in mahogany (left pic!!)  in 2007 till this day a shiny wheel!  I layd 7-8 coats of varnish on it to make a deep shine, you made a nice wheel but i would have made it a bit deeper and not as wide (if you know what i mean.) There are pics of my wheel in another topic about steeringwheels..

Dutchzcarguy... My intent was to make it narrower, but I liked the feel of it. This wheel is really heavy, I guess because of the epoxy.

CO... I've not used the Haas mill yet but its available so its on my bucket list. I was disappointed when I pulled out the original steering hub coin and found it to be chromed plastic. My prototype is attached. If successful, I'll powdercoat it and then buff off the coating on the raised "Datsun Z". 

I've got Case Western Reserve University within 25 miles that provides community access to all equipment. Cleveland Public Library 30 miles away has limited equipment. Kent State University within 15 miles that plans on giving community access in the next few months. There is a third makerspace around 40 miles away but its too far away. These are all free except for materials and there are at least one more that requires a subscription to use.

What I'm getting at, if you check around, your likely to find a community-access makerspace in your area.

 

Edited September 27, 20213 yr by Jeff Berk

Could it be that that Z is upside down?  you started with the z upside down and took a bit off of the left lower .. ?  If i look at a imaginary vertical line the original Z sign is shorter on the upper horizontal line (on the left).. this one is not.. 

Hope you know what i mean.. Also the foot of the z is normally longer on the right as shown above..  sorry am i nitpicking? 😟

Edited September 28, 20213 yr by dutchzcarguy

I think you're right. I'll need to retrace the Z.

Cool. I've not looked for makerspaces in my area, but that is something I should investigate. Been meaning to, but keep forgetting.

I did pick up an el-cheapo CNC router not long ago and have made a few parts similar in concept to what you're trying to do. "They say" it's capable of doing some light duty milling in aluminum, but I don't think it's rigid enough. Everything I've cut so far has been plastic.

So far, I've followed my typical pattern... Spend about half the time improving the machine and fixing the flaws with it, and the other half the time actually using the machine to make parts.