Oh, and your steering wheel coin... That's about the size of a quarter, right? That's going to take a long time to mill out all that detailed recessed area.

And I'm sure the reason you're going to powder coat it is to hide the tooling marks, right? 

Wally, I did this resto myself and it wasn’t hard just time consuming. I did like the others mentioned (and filled the forum advice). I stripped the spikes to the metal, primed and the put several coats of satin. On the resin/wood portion just sand smooth, wipe off any dust and residue and then go with clear Poly. Clear poly isn’t a actually clear is has a light tint by it very nature. Puts a nice color on the wheel. I put about 4-5 coats of poly (spray). Darkens a bit with more coats. You don’t need any stain (this is a point of disagreement on the forum). I’d make it to your liking. Here’s techniques I used. Poly takes a long time to dry. I waited 12 hrs between coats, lightly sanded with like 600 grit sand paper between coats, wipe down between coats. Poly is fickle, it can sometimes lay uneven (it runs so lay it on thin) , it can get bubbles easily and dust can land on it during the long drying phase. The sanding in between should mitigate most of that. Be sure the area you are spaying is dust and wind free or else it will be a problem. Strip and paint the spokes first, then do the wheel. Good luck and post pics. He was mine, got from a junk yard. It was bad and the yard still charged me $40 or $50.

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Very nice!!

 From green funk to that...

I think I paid around $50 or so for my junk-yard wheel and it wasn't even the Faux Wood variety. 

13 minutes ago, Jeff Berk said:

it wasn't even the Faux Wood variety. 

oh yes it is the fake wood variety. it's made of glue and wood powder .. sort of..  I took one apart in 2007 and it can be very sharp on the edges, it's fake wood.