Just note that the voltage adjustment was for the old style points voltage regulator. A solid-state voltage regulator, which is pretty much all that is available now, probably does not have any adjustment.

If it's a Standard, it's "in spec".

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=45627&cc=1209170&pt=4884&jsn=844

https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/154/GF10221B.pdf

MECHANIC'S SERVICE TIPS (MECHANICAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS) TEMPERATURE COMPENSATION FEATURES All VRs are designed to compensate for changes in temperature, matching the output voltage to the needs of the battery. They produce higher voltage in cold weather and lower voltage in warm weather, especially the electromechanical type. This in turn affects the voltage calibration, therefore you should always operate a voltage regulator for 20 minutes to stabilize the internal heating effects before checking the voltage setting. Voltage specifications of regulators after 20 minutes warm up (at 70 °F) are 13.5 - 15.0 volts for alternator output currents between 3 - 21 amp.

Relay questions...

 

Does your haltech unit have a PDM? I just found out about them when I was redoing my wiring on my car. Its a bit out of my budget  (plus my car does not have an ECU) but the PDM systems seem to really simplify the wiring on the car.

Haltech has a separate PDM module or the new Nexus unit is all in one. Really designed for race applications, running different fuels, NOS and boost.

Purchased the Elite 750 good fit for a straight 6.  Internal MAP sensor, wide band O2 is a separate module. 

The PDM  would be nice for my in-tank fuel pump and injectors but overkill for the amps drawn on my application. Will just replace relays and fuses when they burn. 

Hi All,

Hope everyone is healthy. EFI conversion is moving forward. Upgrading the alternator to MSA 60 amp kit with wiring harness connector.  Config now: 1973 240Z fuel pump delete. Understand the fuel pump is connected to the VR or the alternator on 73. 

Question how do I terminate fuel pump connection with the new connector? The ECU installed has a 12v fuel pump wire through a relay and 15 amp fuse. So the fuel pump wire on the existing harness serves no purpose would prefer that is was not active.  Already upgraded the fuse box. 

Thanks,

It's been a long time since I removed the piggy back harness for the fuel pump relay. I'm not sure whether or not I trashed it. Anyway, I believe the piggyback harness is between the voltage regulator and the engine bay harness. You should be able to identify a yellow wire that should branch off the harness to the passenger compartment. It goes to the fuel pump relay in the kick panel.

The easiest way to defeat the factory modification is just to unplug the relays in the passenger kick panel.

Are you looking at connecting the new fuel pump power wire to the old factory wire running back to the fuel pump?

Steve J,

Yes will run a new fuel pump wire to the pump to the ECU wire . Goal is to disrupt the existing harness as little as possible. So would like to leave the fuel pump wire at the alt in place just disconnect.  

My kick panel does not have either relay. So if the relays do not exist does a FP wire to the VR exist?

1 minute ago, Blitzed said:

Steve J,

Yes will run a new fuel pump wire to the pump to the ECU wire . Goal is to disrupt the existing harness as little as possible. So would like to leave the fuel pump wire at the alt in place just disconnect.  

My kick panel does not have either relay. So if the relays do not exist does a FP wire to the VR exist?

There was never a wire from the VR to the fuel pump. The yellow wire from between the alternator and the VR is the neutral from the alternator. It had enough voltage and current to energize the coil for the fuel pump relay. If the relay is gone, there is no circuit to control. You have two open circuits.

Thanks for the info. 

New question. seeing some chatter on-line about the 60 amp ALT putting strain on the on the headlight wiring harness and combo switch (steering wheel column) for running lights and headlights?

 

A typical battery has WAAAAYYY more than 60 amps available.  "Strain" is initiated by the load not the availability.  You might only run in to problems if you tried to charge a dead battery with the alternator, the charging wire might get hot.  Even then you've only added 10 amps of capacity.  No concerns seen.