As we all know, not all needs are answered by over-the-counter tools. As one example, my Z-friend Dieter Roth made his own special wrench for one particularly annoying Z job (halfshaft U-joint bolts, IIRC) by simply grinding off the excess metal from a standard open-end wrench so that it would fit inside the limited-clearance space.  For my own efforts, I've enjoyed constant use over the years from a 18" length of 1"-dia aluminum tubing (from a TV antenna mast) that I squashed one end of so that it would fit over the end of open-end and box-end wrenches to give extra leverage.

What's in your tool box?

That's like the difference between fitting and proper.

 

17 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

There is no such thing as the best tool.  If I need to pound a nail in, a micrometer does me no good, yet for precision measuring, the hammer is just as useless.  Whenever I work on anything house or vehicle related, I tend to need every tool I own.  If I don't own the perfect tool for a job, I either make one, or I improvise and use what I have in the toolbox already.  If I have the time or think I'll ever need to do the same job again, I'll usually make a tool or jig.

 

100%!

There are two problems (at least).  First, for every job I do, I think I spend as much time cleaning and putting away all the tools I took out as I did doing the job, and second, when making a tool I constantly struggle with do I take the time to make it elegant or just get it done so I can get on with what needs to be done.  Usually, it's 'Get it done - Make it elegant later'.  Of course, later seldom comes.

The first time I really took the time (about two days IIRC) to make something elegant was for a bolt stretch gauge - everything except the dial indicator and SHCS.  I wanted to see if I could do it.

Currently, I am making a tubing straightener, tubing notcher, and a ring filer - time I have, money I don't.  It seems this car of mine is determined to suck up all available funds.

OK, I have to ask... What is the purpose of a bolt stretch gauge? Please don't say to measure the stretch of a bolt. A little background please on this cool-looking tool.

Do a Google search for the term "Torque-to-Yield".

2 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

OK, I have to ask... What is the purpose of a bolt stretch gauge? Please don't say to measure the stretch of a bolt. A little background please on this cool-looking tool.

Torque to yield bolts require that how much the fastener stretches is known. Once the bolt reaches the maximum allowable stretch, it must be discarded and replaced. 
 

So yes, you are measuring how much the bolt stretches.

Part of the reason for owning a Z and subscribing to this site is to learn something now and then. Fel-Pro does a good job of explaining the concept and included an example for a Subaru where the head bolts had to be tightened in two steps, loosened in two steps, and then tightened in two to three steps in order to get to the "yield zone". 

https://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/proper-installation-use-t-t-y-bolts.html

 

3 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

a Subaru where the head bolts had to be tightened in two steps, loosened in two steps, and then tightened in two to three steps in order to get to the "yield zone". 

I've owned a lot Subies and have done that head bolt job a few times, real pain in the butt.

This has nothing to do with Zs but Stihl equipment. They've gone to a new carb tool they won't sale you, bat rastards, for adjusting the high and low settings.

After a month of trying to save a dollar I found what works at Harbor Freight. It's a screwdriver set with a 4mm tool you need all the rest are just a bonus in my thinking and I must offset everything with a positive spin. Wacko I know, I get that every other day.

https://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-4143.html

 

I don't know if this qualifies as a tool but it's going to be very useful to me, My shop has a bit of a slope leading up to it.  A car that is running can just drive in but most of the cars that come in can't do it under their own power so I tow them up with the lawn tractor but have to stop 10-15 ft. away, then hook up tow straps and pull the car in with a come-along. A long and tiresome job, so I picked up a 12v 3,500 lb winch, built a base for it, hook it up to a battery, hook the battery charger up to it and turn it to Start. Lots of juice flowing and pull the car into the garage in seconds. I love it! Less work for my old back.

 

 

I have exactly the same issue with an approach slope to my garage... although the frequency of my new-project arrivals pales in comparison with GK's.  I bought a hand-crank winch and bolted it to my workbench (which is bolted to the back wall of my garage).  Motorized would have been better, but it was certainly an improvement over a come-along

I also mounted a winch. In my case, I sometimes need to pull my car in and onto my 4-post lift. Pushing it up the lift ramps was too difficult so I attached a box hitch receiver at the other end of the lift. I have a small 12v winch that is welded to a hitch adapter. The winch can then be attached to the lift to pull my Z onto the lift. The winch can also attach to my Chevy Volt or my garden tractor with their box hitch receiver and run off their battery.

I thought I was so original with my idea. I guess not.

What do they say about like-minds?

I also mounted a hand-cranked winch to my 4-poster lift. However, most of the time I run the winch with a battery powered drill with a 3/8" drive 3/4" socket chucked up. The drill works great until I have to "go over the hump".

Edited July 13, 20213 yr by crayZlair
added more for clarity