Last Wednesday, I completed the final phase of my fresh motor rebuild with the AC system upgrade to a new Vintage Air Sanden 508 compressor and replacement of the air drier.  (my system was already converted to r134a by Nissan years ago)  All went well, drew down a vacuum and let it sit overnight - no leaks, charged the system with 27oz of r134a, and now have 42 F air out the vents.

Below are the original and new flex line hoses I needed to complete the hookup to the new compressor.   Parts needed are 2' of number 8 and number 10 ac hose, a #8 135 degree o-ring fitting with service port on left,  #10 135 degree o-ring fitting with port on right, 90 degree #8 flare fitting, and a straight #8 step up to #10 fitting.  I was able to use the hydraulic crimper at the local Prairie Grove auto parts store.  After cutting the hoses to size and test fitting, be sure to mark the clocking on the 90 degree line at both ends before crimping.  The AC lines are not very twistable. 

Only other issue is I extended the compressor clutch wire about a foot in length as it was just long enough to reach the stock wiring connection and wanted a cleaner look to the wiring.

Below is the air drier mounted in the stock bracket with new switch.

Compressor mounted and running with stock belt and tension provided by stock idler adjuster.   Note the reason for the left / right 135 degree compressor fittings.   Could not clock the compressor 90 degrees for better access as the low side fitting comes too close to the frame rail in that position.

 

 

Looks great!

This has been on my to do list for a very long time.  Thanks for the time,  effort and info you put into this.  It will certainly make mine easier when I get to it.

10 hours ago, gwri8 said:

This has been on my to do list for a very long time.  Thanks for the time,  effort and info you put into this.  It will certainly make mine easier when I get to it.

You're most welcome Greg.  In the meantime, keep your eye out for a zx alloy compressor bracket.  Easier to modify and far lighter that the cast iron version.

Nice work. I use a sanden 709. Just an FYI. Your drier is backwards. The word “In” is on the sight glass and is pointing towards the firewall. Should be pointing towards the condenser discharge line. If you have 42 degree air on a hot day, and no leaks might just leave it be though. Good luck.  

Edited July 31, 20213 yr by Powerglide1956

A really nice install.  Can you determine how much of a gap you have from the outside of the compressor to the frame rail?

Thank you!    A quick rough measurement shows about 2 1/2 inches of clearance to the frame rail.  I originally tried to clock the compressor fillings 90 degrees  toward the frame rail, but the bigger discharge fitting was just too close to the rail for comfort.

In other A/C related news, I recently completed about 1700 miles of driving to Zcon & back with the A/C system running and it performed flawlessly.  Very happy about that, and even with the A/C running some of the trip, I managed around 29 mpg on the fuel.

(Had to drive behind Zup's silver 240 some of the time so he wouldn't see my sweater & gloves on.)  

Thanks for that info.  I'm Installing a Vintage Air Mini into my '72 and just completed the cabin connections today using E-Z-Clip fittings and a JEGS bulkhead for the A/C lines.  As member qz16 noted when he did the same install a few years ago, making those interior connections is a royal PITA.  But now they're done.

I'm using the generic Vintage Air brackets for mounting the Sanden compressor to the block so I have some cutting and welding to do.  Already cut and drilled a piece of 1/4" steel plate that will get bolted to the block and am now trying to determine how much to cut off the back of the brackets so that the compressor has its fittings in the optimum, almost-upright configuration and yet have enough travel left in the slotted portion of the brackets to easily change belts if and when needed.

My problem is that the engine is not in the car so I need to do some mock-ups to make sure the fit is correct.  I plan to document the dimensions and cuts so future Sanden installers will have an easier time of it.

Edited September 4, 20213 yr by Seppi72
misspelling

1 hour ago, S30Driver said:

(Had to drive behind Zup's silver 240 some of the time so he wouldn't see my sweater & gloves on.)  

Hahaha!!!!

On 7/17/2021 at 7:22 AM, S30Driver said:

My system was already converted to r134a by Nissan years ago

Did they replace the under the dash stuff at that time? Or its still the original evap components under the dash and just replacement condenser, compressor, dryer, and hoses? 

And are you on an OE condenser? Or a more modern PF unit. Trying to figure out the best unit for my upgrade next year. 

All the components were replaced with oem at that time.  Including the evaporator.   Over the years, the compressor developed a seal leak (had to recharge once a year)  which motivated me to upgrade to the Sandon and new air dryer of course.

Jim, late to this post but this AC dragon is beginning to poke its head out of its lair for me.  Only because I’m replacing heater core and having the heater and AC valve rebuilt.   Summer come fast where I live and I don’t won’t to waste half of it unraveling my AC issues,   I have a stock system.  My bracket is a ZX one, my compressor came off my car and is Hitachi.  I have no idea if it works.  I do know that the system was charged when I removed the AC lines.  I had quite a surprise when I made a bad assumption that the system was depleted and removed a AC line.   Made a mess and scared the crap out of me when it discharged.  What a dummy!   
I saw these Sanden compressors for sale ~$200.   Seems reasonable but is it worth having my rebuilt or tested first?   Getting those fitting set up sounds a bit difficult and I don’t have access to a hydraulic crimper.  Is the Sanden lighter than the stock one.  I couldn’t believe the weight of that thing.  I also could use a replacement condenser.  Mine appears to have had several battles with blunt objects smashing up the fins pretty good not to mention it looks rough,  I never see the logic of putting old crap back into service like this condenser when it probably on its final leg anyway.  
You did a sweet job on this, nice work and thanks for posting it up.  

The genuine Sanden compressor is smaller, lighter, and far more efficient.  Robs less hp to drive it when engaged.  Watch out for the Sanden knockoffs.  (China)  Ordered mine from Vintage Air.

Easier mounting than what I did is to purchase the mount kit, which is a steel plate and 2 slotted mounting ears.  Those get welded to the plate to line up with the compressor, then bolt it on to the stock location.  Downside is adjustment is like the alternator as opposed to the idler pulley adjustment I preferred.

Don't forget to replace the air drier before you recharge the system.