Putting in a replacement L-28

[Av8ferg]

Jeff, thought of that but there is one bolt on the inside toward block that will be nearly impossible to get torque on. I’m done screwing with it.


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[Zed Head]

Removing a broken stud from the exhaust manifold is one of the hardest jobs I've done, even with it out, locked down for torquing on, and massive heat.  Splitting the nut after you get room might be the best option to avoid future pain, since you're removing the engine anyway.  Or just cutting the pipe in a good spot for welding on a new system.  Especially if the flange isn't leaking.  Those flanges can be difficult to get sealed sometimes.

[Racer X]

I’ve always found heat to make removing stubborn bolts or studs from cast iron much easier.

And if a bolt or stud breaks off flush (on cast iron) I learned how to heat it up cherry red with a cutting torch (using just the flame), and blow it out using the cutting function of the torch. Works a treat, leaving the threads intact in the cast iron manifold, ready to chase with a tap and install a new fastener.

[ETI4K]

Seems remarkable that trans worked at all with that many loose bits.

[Av8ferg]

Well, persistence usually works. I often go for harder vs smarter. I knew my car was from CA and here is the cat I pulled off. I’ve seen a lot of recent news of people cutting these off cars parked in parked overnight. My waitress last month in St Louis had hers cut off in her driveway on a Honda....cost her $550 to replace it. Anyone of you Californian’s need a cat? I’m sure this is sellable for the palladium or platinum at a min?
We don’t need them in NC on older cars and this car is exempt from all state inspections and smog regulations anyway.



I had to remove this heat shied to get better access to the driveshaft. Is this heat shield only on cars with catalytic converters?

[siteunseen]

FWIW my Alabama '77 did not have the heat shield or converter. It was original before I got a hold of it.

 

 

 

 

[Jeff G 78]

22 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

FWIW my Alabama '77 did not have the heat shield or converter. It was original before I got a hold of it.

I thought only CA got the converter prior to the ZX.  My Fed '78 with original exhaust had a shielded resonator.

[Av8ferg]

Quick question. I removed the transmission mount and the transmission leaned downward almost to the floor and the axel started to slide out but not quite all the way. So I jacked the transmission back up. Do I need to remove the four bolts on the back of the axle near diff and pull it out or just raise the back of the car to get more clearance? I didn’t think with the transmission attached to the engine and engine mounts still bolted in it would lean down so far. What’s the correct procedure here? The bug pull out is happening in the AM tomorrow and I have two buddies helping so she needs to be ready to go!


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[S30Driver]

The cat is worth $50 to any scrap dealer and they will pick up.  Put it toward your motor swap to defer cost....   Might make the wife happy  

Edited August 5, 2021 by S30Driver
addition

[S30Driver]

I think you mean driveshaft, is so, remove four nuts on rear flange, pull out driveshaft, unbolt trans crossmember...  ready for removal.

[Jeff G 78]

24 minutes ago, S30Driver said:

I think you mean driveshaft, is so, remove four nuts on rear flange, pull out driveshaft, unbolt trans crossmember...  ready for removal.

Correct.  He doesn't have to remove the driveshaft to pull the engine/trans combo, but he will have to do it before he installs the engine/trans, so it's better to remove it now.  

[Av8ferg]

Okay, so remove the four bolts of the rear of the driveshaft. Is it okay to let the transmission hang down or do I need to support it before unbolting the motor mounts. It seems odd it would hang so low so just want to make sure that’s normal.

1. Remove 4 drove shaft bolts
2. Attach hoist to engine
3. Unbolt motor mounts
She should slide right out..:. Or for Cliff this might happen!

Who remembers the movie?


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