Putting in a replacement L-28

[Captain Obvious]

And about your strut boot fitment...  I believe the strut boot is intended to snap onto a bump stop plug.

The bump stop goes up under the hat and the boot can be attached to the bump stop either with the boot simply snapping into a groove in the bump stop. or a zip tie if necessary.

In other words, the aftermarket boot may not be designed to snap around the flange on the hat like the original, but may snap around the bump stop instead. Like this pic from a generic boot on amazon:

[Racer X]

8 hours ago, grannyknot said:

You can put a smoog of sealant on both sides of the sheet metal before inserting the the rivnut, then crimp it down.

Silicone sealer has acetic acid in it (that vinegar smell when it is curing). Acetic acid is corrosive.

I would caution against using it on bare metal as the resulting corrosion it causes would be just as bad as not using it.

Before installing a rivnut I paint the bare metal. After installing the rivnut I go over it again to seal the area.

 

 

[dutchzcarguy]

2 hours ago, Racer X said:

Before installing a rivnut I paint the bare metal.

Might ad.. do the rivnut install in wet paint and check if the surrounds is covered in paint.. (bit of paint on the outside of the rivnut and)  then it will not rust.

[grannyknot]

11 hours ago, Racer X said:

Silicone sealer has acetic acid in it (that vinegar smell when it is curing). Acetic acid is corrosive.

I would caution against using it on bare metal as the resulting corrosion it causes would be just as bad as not using it.

Before installing a rivnut I paint the bare metal. After installing the rivnut I go over it again to seal the area.

 

 

I didn't say silicone 😉 I can't stand the stuff, it's good enough for bathtub caulking but I don't use the stuff on cars.

[ETI4K]

23 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

Gotcha, I was wondering what that was about, makes sense now.


Oops, I  almost accidentally hijacked another thread.  Sorry about the detour. 

 

[Av8ferg]

I’ve been battling the proper way to install these Koni’s. I read the long thread on the forum about them and it helped a lot. I decided to make a short video and wrap it all up and see if everyone agrees that I didn’t this correct. I also posted this video over on the Koni thread for future members looking for instructions.

Gland nuts were an issue that I didn’t mention in the video but did over in the Koni thread.

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[Racer X]

17 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I didn't say silicone 😉 I can't stand the stuff, it's good enough for bathtub caulking but I don't use the stuff on cars.

Correct.

ETI4K did, and I tried to multi quote you both but failed.

Sorry, eh?

 

 

[Av8ferg]

Car is back on the ground. Everything is on but not torqued down yet until I get the engine in and a couple buddies to sit in front seat. I wouldn’t say this was an easy job to do as a one man band. Lots of challenges and work stoppages but finally we are ready for an engine.








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[Patcon]

Looks great

[Av8ferg]

Looks great

Thanks, I’ve been putting in about 4 hrs a day to get here. I got Covid at some point too in the process (yes I’m vaccinated), had to wait for parts, had to wait for powder coating. Tomorrow I’m going to install the flywheel, and clutch on new engine.


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[Av8ferg]

Back from Europe and in the garage moving the Z ball down the field. Installed the Fidanza fly wheel and ran into a question when putting in the clutch pressure plate. The fly wheel came with three alignment pins. The FSM says the clutch pressure plate bolts are torques to 17 fly lbs. When I tighten the bolts to 17 it seem to bow the pressure plate. See pics. Not sure if this looks right? Anyone have a comment or clarification of my install procedure. Just looks wrong to me. In the below photo there are 2 yellow circles. Look at the distance between the pressure plate and flywheel. The side with the pin is much further away from the flywheel.
Thanks


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[Jeff G 78]

The tolerance between the dowel and the pressure plate is off a bit.  Check for burrs on the dowels and PP holes.  The dowels should be snug but should not impede the PP from clamping down tight against the flywheel.  If you must, gently file the holes just enough so they slide over the dowel pins.