Putting in a replacement L-28

[S30Driver]

This is the correct oil pressure sender for your car John ....

The later sender, Nissan changed the fuel pump safety cutoff from the afm contacts to detect loss of oil pressure and disable the pump.

[Captain Obvious]

On final approach now!!

Whatever you do... Don't connect the battery until you're sure you've got everything else correct!

including the fuel injection power leads. They're both red, so that's an easy way to get screwed up. Ohm them out to the ECU connector if there's any doubt.

[Zed Head]

Wise words above.  Mayolives has learned a tough lesson.

 

[Av8ferg]

Great words of advice Bruce.  So, I just took some pics of my setup before I left for work.  I have two red wires coming out of the  firewall bundle both have quick disconnects (one green and one black).  My assumption is the black goes the neg terminal post and the green to the positive side.   Also I have 2 extra wires by the starter…one white with a spade connection and a black one with a loop connect.   Not sure where they go on this starter?  I connected the black ground wire from the battery to the bolt that mounts the starter to the transmission.   I don’t see a spade connection on my starter.  It’s a starter for an 82’.   See below pics  

 

 

[siteunseen]

It's supposed to be here...

Maybe that connector can be slid off to expose the little metal blade that sticks out. Somebody may have done switch around but mine is a square plastic female connector that ssd's lides on/off the solenoid. You use that to disable the car from cranking. I use mine for a remote starter connection.

 

[Av8ferg]

Sitting in a hotel in the UK about to fly back to Belgium tonight and doing online research about my Z wiring so I can be ready to get to work on her when I get home.  
I know the injectors get their power directly from the positive side of the battery through a fusible link.  I have a green link there which is pretty short and I’d like to replace it with an inline fuse instead.  My research leads my to believe that the green link is equal to 40 amps, but I’m not sure.  The 77 wiring diagram that Wal280z made shows that link as being white, not green.   Not sure what color it’s supposed to be, so not sure what amp inline fuse to put here.  

I assumed the green was 40 amps because the green link on the fuse link block is 40 amps on a 75’ and 76’.  My hope is that Nissan kept the color methodology the same for all links,  red = 50amps, black= 80amps and green =40 amps.  I also have a black fusible link on the neg post of my battery so I guess an 80amp inline fuse would be good here.  
I am planning to replace the other 4 fuse links near the regulator too at some point.  For reliability, easy of replacement and lastly because on one of my blocks the base is cracked where it bolts to the metal holder.  Only a matter of time before it breaks off.  Not to mention it seems easy for water contamination to get under the plastic covers.  Not really a great design in my option.

So, had anyone else replaced those fusible links on the battery with inline fuses.  The OEM links are like $40 each as well which is silly, and I only found them at one place online.  Comes to like $90 with shipping for two links. 😵‍💫. I’d rather just do away with them and go with a modern solution.  Can anyone confirm the amp fuses I’m looking for there off the battery. You can see my link off battery in the attached picture. Thanks.

Lastly I found this link to a write up about the Datsun fusible links, in here the writer says.” WARNING: Do not replace fusible link with a solid wire, or a regular fuse -- you risk burning up the entire wiring system when a short occurs. The Fusible Link protects against short circuits“.  I don’t understand this, what’s the rational in this statement?   Here the link:

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Fusible_Link
 

Edited October 14, 2021 by Av8ferg

[Racer X]

44 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

Sitting in a hotel in the UK about to fly back to Belgium tonight and doing online research about my Z wiring so I can be ready to get to work on her when I get home.  
I know the injectors get their power directly from the positive side of the battery through a fusible link.  I have a green link there which is pretty short and I’d like to replace it with an inline fuse instead.  My research leads my to believe that the green link is equal to 40 amps, but I’m not sure.  The 77 wiring diagram that Wal280z made shows that link as being white, not green.   Not sure what color it’s supposed to be, so not sure what amp inline fuse to put here.  

I assumed the green was 40 amps because the green link on the fuse link block is 40 amps on a 75’ and 76’.  My hope is that Nissan kept the color methodology the same for all links,  red = 50amps, black= 80amps and green =40 amps.  I also have a black fusible link on the neg post of my battery so I guess an 80amp inline fuse would be good here.  
I am planning to replace the other 4 fuse links near the regulator too at some point.  For reliability, easy of replacement and lastly because on one of my blocks the base is cracked where it bolts to the metal holder.  Only a matter of time before it breaks off.  Not to mention it seems easy for water contamination to get under the plastic covers.  Not really a great design in my option.

So, had anyone else replaced those fusible links on the battery with inline fuses.  The OEM links are like $40 each as well which is silly, and I only found them at one place online.  Comes to like $90 with shipping for two links. 😵‍💫. I’d rather just do away with them and go with a modern solution.  Can anyone confirm the amp fuses I’m looking for there off the battery. You can see my link off battery in the attached picture. Thanks.

Lastly I found this link to a write up about the Datsun fusible links, in here the writer says.” WARNING: Do not replace fusible link with a solid wire, or a regular fuse -- you risk burning up the entire wiring system when a short occurs. The Fusible Link protects against short circuits“.  I don’t understand this, what’s the rational in this statement?   Here the link:

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Fusible_Link
 

Replacing a fusible link with a piece of regular wire is a bad idea, because the wire won’t react to a short circuit like the fusible link, and the wire will heat up and cause a fire.

If the correct amperage of fuse is used I’m not sure why it couldn’t be used. Perhaps someone else here knows and will chime in.

As for expensive ready made fusible links, NAPA should have fusible link in bulk, and you could possibly make your own a bit cheaper.

Have a safe flight home.

 

Edited October 14, 2021 by Racer X

[Zed Head]

I noticed that your link was messed up in one of your earlier pictures.  Somebody lost the other piece the end that connects to the battery, with the plastic clip and the eyelet.  Looks like they just pulled the end out and clamped it down.  It will be longer and more correct with the proper pieces.  Looks like they're hard to find though.

Here's a picture from BAT showing what should be there.  The link is between the two red marks.

 

[Av8ferg]

Zedhead, I agree. Not sure if it’s as effective at this length. I just want a clean, reliable install that I can fix and forget.


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[Yarb]

I think Banzai sells those as an assembly.

[Av8ferg]

Need a little help. I’m almost to a point where I can start the engine, but still waiting on a heater hose and radiator hoses. Hoping they arrive today.

I need help deciphering the vacuum lines first. The FSM hasn’t been helpful and I’m trying to figure out where things go.
1. There are 2 vacuum lines coming off the throttle body. One on either side. I think... one goes to the distributor vacuum advance and one to the EGR. Guessing the one on the side closest to the distributor goes to the advance dash pot. I have removed the EGR so I guess I just plug up the other hole?

2. There are three line to carbon canister. One goes to my intake (mine actually has a label on it). The middle one says “purge”. Where does that go. Other like comes from fuel line.

3. The Throttle body return spring. Mine was removed but I found it in a box, it has a arm and a spring (see pic). Does anyone have a pic of how this attaches and where the other part of spring connects?

All the Wiring around the coil still needs sorting but I won’t attack that today. I have a ZX distributor so I’m working through reading Blues write up on that but I still extra wires over there. Expect questions on this at a later date.

BTW, found some really nice battery post connectors with rubber covers that make easy to add the extra wires . See pic below. I pulled the Neg cover off for the pic. The extra wires are for the battery maintainer Got the terminal connects
on Amazon...of course.







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[Yarb]

The canister and the vac advance are connected by a vacuum “T”. The bracket for the spring iirc mounts to the bottom bolt on the throttle body on the engine side.