Putting in a replacement L-28

[Av8ferg]

The canister and the vac advance are connected by a vacuum “T”. The bracket for the spring iirc mounts to the bottom bolt on the throttle body on the engine side.

Okay thanks. I don’t see a bolt on the bottom on my TB even looked at my other one that I’m a box. I’ll take a pic of the bottom and post it shortly.
Got it on the vac advance. So the “T” one side to Carbon Canister, one to Vacuum Adv and where does third part of “T” go? I need to buy new lines. Mine are super brittle


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[Yarb]

Theres a curved vacum port on the bottom of the throttle body

[Yarb]

Just now, Yarb said:

Theres a curved vacum port on the bottom of the throttle body

John, your intake does not have 4 bolts where the throttle body mounts?

[Yarb]

Look straight down in the pic. You’ll see the bottom bolt next to the recoil spring and you can see the edge of the spring bracket held on by that bolt. Here’s a pic

[EuroDat]

On 10/5/2021 at 5:04 PM, Av8ferg said:

Okay, I think I’ve completed all the engine bay clean up and prep I need to do before the engine goes in. There is more work to do especially near the coil area but I think everything else can be completed after the engine goes in. See the below pics and let me know if anyone sees anything out of place or a missed. This has been a lot more more than I expected, definitely underestimated it.




 

Hi John,

Your wiring harness looks great. Top work.

Can you give some tips on how you went about it?

The car is coming along great btw🏆

[siteunseen]

He is doing top shelf work for sure. I think his work ethic and the forum took him there. I know I've enjoyed his build thread and getting to know him along the way. Keep it up and pass it along.

[Captain Obvious]

1 - Yes, the vacuum port on the throttle body that points forward is the one that supplies vacuum to both the distributor advance and the carbon can "DIST" (distributor) port. From the throttle body nipple, to the "T". Then after the "T", one side goes to the distributor and the other side goes to the control signal port on the carbon can.

1a - Yes, if you aren't running EGR, just cap off the other vacuum nipple.

2 - The "purge" line on the carbon can goes directly to the intake manifold. One of the ports on top that is always straight-up manifold vacuum.

3 - The bracket for the return spring mounts under one of the four Allen head bolt that hold the throttle body to the intake manifold. As mentioned above, the bolt is the one on the lower right. Here's a pic of an upside-down throttle body and you can see where and how the bracket mounts:

[Captain Obvious]

And here's a snippet showing where they originally connected the carbon can purge line:

[Av8ferg]

Chas, thank you for the compliment.  I wanted to get my wiring squared away because I’ve read on this forum how many issues are tied to bad electrical connections.  Part of my motivation is just wanting to get it right and not be stuck on the road somewhere.  I don’t think I’ve told anyone on this forum that before my career as a military pilot I was an avionics mechanic for the US Air Force.  I used to work on A-10s.  The schooling was about 18 months where I learned about electrical theory, radios, navigation and modern avionics systems.  I built many cables during that 4 year period working on A-10’s.   I will say Captain Obvious is far far ahead of me in this area, he’d have been my boss.  I was just a pion in my unit so I wasn’t doing serious repairs the new and junior guys like me did the wizz ant work like building cables and replacing cockpit instruments.  The senior guys replaced and repaired cards, benched check boxes with o-scopes and did the diagnostics.  
So, I snipped all the connections on my harness in the engine bay and soldered on new ones.  I then put heat shrink covers on each weld followed buy a larger shrink wrap to cover both wires.  I then wrapped the cable in a wire loom, to help protect from heat and chafing.  Here is a link to the loom.   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW672R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For the smaller wires I used a different wire cover material.  You this on new cars and something I picked up at the local auto parts store.  It’s an accordion looking plastic sleeve.   I terminated all the covers ends with a small zip tie.  

Cliff, thanks….without all the help on this forum I would have probably lost motivation due to frustration and sold the car at this point without all the help on this forum.  I haven’t met most of you but I still consider you guy friends and hope to continue the relationship.  It’s not just cars, but this type community is healthy and continues to make me a better person because it allows me to get other perspectives and viewpoints, I hope I’ve provided the same.   Captain Obvious and I have spoken on this topic.  I absolutely will pay if forward.  My knowledge is still on the apprentice level but willing to help when I can.  
 

Bruce, thanks for the clear explanations on my latest questions.  Looks like I need to pull my AFM back off to get the spring on.  
Yarb…thanks as well for the help.   

[Captain Obvious]

36 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

Looks like I need to pull my AFM back off to get the spring on.  

The only times I've messed with that spring and bracket was while I was bolting the throttle body onto the snout on the intake manifold, so I don't know if there's enough room to get in there and deal with it while the AFM and rubber tube are in place or not. You might have to take off that stuff in order to fit hands down in there to put the bracket and spring in place.

Here's hoping you don't have to take too much off to get in there.   

 

[Racer X]

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

  I don’t think I’ve told anyone on this forum that before my career as a military pilot I was an avionics mechanic for the US Air Force.  I used to work on A-10s.  The schooling was about 18 months where I learned about electrical theory, radios, navigation and modern avionics systems.  I built many cables during that 4 year period working on A-10’s.   I will say Captain Obvious is far far ahead of me in this area, he’d have been my boss.  I was just a pion in my unit so I wasn’t doing serious repairs the new and junior guys like me did the wizz ant work like building cables and replacing cockpit instruments.  The senior guys replaced and repaired cards, benched check boxes with o-scopes and did the diagnostics.  
So, I snipped all the connections on my harness in the engine bay and soldered on new ones.  I then put heat shrink covers on each weld followed buy a larger shrink wrap to cover both wires.  I then wrapped the cable in a wire loom, to help protect from heat and chafing.  Here is a link to the loom.   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW672R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For the smaller wires I used a different wire cover material.  You this on new cars and something I picked up at the local auto parts store.  It’s an accordion looking plastic sleeve.   I terminated all the covers ends with a small zip tie.  

 

So where are the canon plugs and nomex thread cable ties? 

 😉

 

Nice work Ferg. You’re going to have a car to be proud of when you’re finished.

 

[Av8ferg]

So where are the canon plugs and nomex thread cable ties? 
 [emoji6]
 
Nice work Ferg. You’re going to have a car to be proud of when you’re finished.
 

Those canon plugs were a PITA. the A-10 has one plug that we t to the ADI in the cockpit this ADI also rotated for heading so it rolled in the case like a ball free floating...that instrument had about 60 wires on one plug. Mix one up and the instrument went cuckoo, ask me how I know. At least I had the best tools in the world, I went from Snap-On then to Harbor Freight now.
Thanks for the compliment but I won’t feel good until it actually runs


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