Putting in a replacement L-28

[Av8ferg]

So close for the start with a few items to sort out. Still waiting on these hoses from MSA...ordered on 13 Oct. called last week and they said they’d send them the next day? Hmm?

Today is got the following completed.
1. Throttle linkage all squared away and working nicely. Thanks Captain Obvious and Yarb for the assist.

2. Water line to temp block below the Thermotime Switch and air line connected there to the TB.

3. Put new brass bushings in the gear shifter and got all the boots and covers on.

Questions:

1. Decided to test the coil before hooking it up.. The FSM I believe says secondary resistance should be 8-12k ohms. I have two coils here. One reads 15.5 and the other 12.8. This is testing from the center post to the neg or pos terminal. I’m thinking I might need a new coil? Thoughts? FYI I’m going to be removing the ballast block and using the matchbox ignition on my ZX dizzy.

2. Wiring: My distributor advance dashpot has a male spade connection. Looked in the 77 wire diagram and didn’t see that. See below pic. Any ideas?

If I had these coolant and heater hoses, I’d be attempting a start.




BTW, all these hose connection are a PITA! Anyone see any problems, other than the valve cover hose connect.



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[Yarb]

Hey John, take your meter and check continuity from the spade to ground. Have no idea what that is but it looks like it’s possibly a ground connection.

[Captain Obvious]

I can't wait! You know it's not going to run first try, right? You know that, right? 

I'm no expert on such things, but here's what I would do.

0) Make sure you have a fire extinguisher and a spotter/helper with you.

1) disable the fuel injection system and pull the spark plugs. Crank it over a bunch like that first. Just to get the oil circulating and listen for grossly incorrect noises, etc. To disable the FI system, I would disconnect the fusible link that runs to the positive battery post. And to look for oil pressure, you should be able to pull the oil cap on the valve cover and watch for oil coming out of the holes in the camshaft lobes as you (your helper/spotter) crank the engine.

2) Once you've got oil flowing, put a timing light on it and you might be able to get it spinning fast enough on the starter to get your ignition timing somewhat close to target.

3) Then once you've got oil flowing (and maybe timing close), pull the starter solenoid wire off and just hang on the key for a little bit and listen to the fuel pump running. I can hear the difference in sound of the pump when the load changes on a full pressurized rail.

4) Then once you've got oil, spark timing, and fuel... Put the plugs in, reconnect the starter solenoid wire on, reconnect the FI fusible link, cross your fingers... And give it a go.

And call me so I can hear it running in the background!!!     

[siteunseen]

Crack the drain on bottom of the radiator and run clean water through the top to flush out anything. It'll run hot on 1st start for a minute or two then the temp will start to come down when all the new starts to wear in. Keep the hose running through during that part, as per Tom Monroe's How to book.

[Av8ferg]

Thanks Cliff, I cleaned the rad out completely when it was out of the car and soaked it inside with Simple Green and flushed it with the hose until it ran clear. I do need to flush the heater core and will do that today to this weekend .


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[dutchzcarguy]

15 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

Anyone see any problems, other than the valve cover hose connect.

As i'm in the proces of putting in a clean L28 in my 280zx..  i see your L28 has no heatshield under the inlet manifold? Is that not neccesary?

Maybe you can make one?

 

cleaned up parts (incl.  heatshields)

 

[Av8ferg]

I have all those shields but didn’t install them because I have a ceramic coated header. Hoping that negates the need for the shields .


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[Av8ferg]

Great advice Bruce on the start plan. Thank you for that.
So the coil and distributor wiring was the game today. Can’t finish because I have to go to Memphis to hop in the simulator for recurrent training.

Take a look at this pic. I labeled the wires using Blues ZX distributor conversion link. I’ve crossed referenced it with Wal280z wiring diagram. I have a few wires I can’t ID that we’re in the same bundle near the coil but not connected the the resistor block. See below pic. I have three black, one yellow and one white with black wires. I’m betting 2 or all the blacks are grounds. The wiring diagram only shows 2. The other wires I’m clueless.







Also here was the wires before taking them off The resistor block.



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Ok

[SteveJ]

From the wiring diagram:

Yellow - Temperature gauge sending unit - Does it have a female bullet connector?

White/Black - BCDD Cut Solenoid - Does it have a female bullet connector?

I see the same two grounds that you see. However, you're not showing the ends of the wires, so that limits what I can figure out.

[Av8ferg]

SteveJ,
Thank you!! I thought I had the BCDD already hooked up but apparently not. The Yellow wire is 42” long and has a female spade connector. The connector is all smashed so don’t think it was attached recently. The three black wires are all the same length and have open wires, no connects.



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[SteveJ]

I dunno. That connector on the yellow wire looks like a deformed female bullet connector to me, but I can't blow up your photo to confirm.

The only other yellow wire that travels much in the engine bay is the neutral going from the VR to the alternator. It wouldn't be roaming around the driver's side of the engine bay, though.

I would not be surprised if you don't currently have a wire going to the temp sender. Yellow was used for this wire in all of S30 diagrams that I have seen.

[Av8ferg]

Yep, I don’t have anything else going for the temp sensor on the thermostat housing so that should be it. It’s does have a smashed female spade connector. I’m going to assume all those black wires are grounds. Thanks for taking your time to help!


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