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Putting in a replacement L-28


Av8ferg

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I think Jim is suggesting building a new 2½" y pipe and using two of the adapters at the header for transitions to the new y pipe

I investigated that approach today. Went to two different shops today both said they don’t have and cannot bend stainless. Something about its hardness and tendency to crack when bending. Both could do something out of regular steel pipe but want the car there to do the work. Both say their booked for the next 3 weeks and both charge $115/hr so with parts and labor going to be $350. That’s almost half the cost of a Zstory’s header that I could order and get in Jan that will bolt up to everything. I’m going to trying this new idea. Parts and labor will be around $80 and if I don’t like it I can still run the car until Sean’s headers come in.

I used to have welders that worked for me in the squadron. These guys could weld titanium, stainless, aluminum....
If I were still in I’d have this all buttoned up by now, for two pizzas.

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Finally got the exhaust mostly installed.   I still have some minor tweaks with hangars and I’ll be finished.  Spent a couple hours today hunting down someone who could weld stainless steel.   It began as a wild goose chase but finally found a guy.   Charged me $40 to weld the V-band fitting to the pipe 2”-2’5” adaptor.   
Came out good and I got it all bolted up and the system sounded great. Will post a video tomorrow, once I’m done so people can hear the Z-Story classic muffler on a EFI L28.  
 

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10 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

someone who could weld stainless steel

I never had to weld it but i can imagine that i can weld it with my aluminium welding mig? (the right gas (Argon)) Just put in some stainless wire? 

Oh btw.. that clamp right behind your pre muffler .. give it a turn your scalp will be thankful  😉  

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The only stainless I've welded was in the shipyards on one of the Army Corps of Engineers dredges using stick welding rod. I found it to be fairly easy to produce a good weld. I think MIG would be easier than stick. I also found the stainless rod works well on cast iron probably because of the high nickel content.

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On 7/19/2021 at 12:48 PM, heyitsrama said:

To my understanding a smaller diameter clutch will bite/engage harder because of the reduced surface area and mass. With the larger clutch you retain the engaging characteristics to be closer to "OEM" yet are able to get the benefit of a lighter flywheel (better throttle response).

I'm quite happy with the setup. perhaps others can chime in....

That is amazing! I really wanted to lighten the flywheel, but I am a new manual driver and was worried about lightening affecting drive ability. But if it’s similar to OEM, that is perfect!

Edit: apologies, was on mobile and did not realize this post is 15 pages long. Sorry for replying to an old post. 

Edited by Muzez
I am an idiot
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That is amazing! I really wanted to lighten the flywheel, but I am a new manual driver and was worried about lightening affecting drive ability. But if it’s similar to OEM, that is perfect!

Edit: apologies, was on mobile and did not realize this post is 15 pages long. Sorry for replying to an old post. 

No problem, it’s been a long process. Drove the car around the neighborhood today, the light flywheel takes a little getting used to but only in first gear, otherwise its fine. I’ve been driving manual trans my whole driving life, it’s like second nature, so I don’t find it difficult at all.


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I thought about starting a new thread and call it my 280z build, since I’ve successfully got the engine in and operating.   I’ve got new challenges ahead unrelated to the engine so let me know if should start a new thread.   
Yesterday I began to tackle the interior.  This car doesn’t have any rust issues I’ve discovered except for the passenger floor board.   The floor board has 5 small areas where there are holes.  I’ll post pics below.   I really can’t tackle the interior until I get over this speed bump so I wanted to get advice from guys on here that have done rust repair.   I have 3 possible ways forward the way I see it.  A few things I need to share is that other than these holes, I can’t find any more rust and the floor is solid otherwise. I chipped away the sound proofing until I found clean metal around each hole.  I did this a few months ago and put some POR-15 down to arrest any further rusting until I could get to this.  Posting pics pre and post POR-15 so you can have a better view of how they looked.  

1. pay the guy that welded my exhaust pipe to weld in the patches.  Larges patch would be 3”x4”. He can do it Friday but hasn’t seen the job in person.  
2. buy a welder and learn how to weld and do it myself.  (Learn a new skill)

3. Buy a full passenger side floor board and have a body shop to the job.  
 

Since these aren’t flat areas, not sure how that is done and one areaI think you can see fuel lines below the hole.  
 

Take a look. Also have a pic of the vinyl I’m putting in.  I did the driver’s interior rocker yesterday. 
 


 

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Thanks Jim,  I agree on the patch work,   Just don’t want a hack job.  It doesn’t need to be pretty but in need to be done right.  That fuel line scares me.   I’ve always wanted to learn to weld and have 2x 220v 30 amp plugs in my garage,  I’ll sleep on it after more advice.
 

The diamond stitch vinyl I picked up on Amazon.  Quality it’s pretty good, and it’s not expensive either.   I’m going to build a template out of a thin cheap U-haul moving blanket (not those heavy moving blankets)  I have laying around,  it the perfect material for a template and it cuts really easy.  Once I’m done I’m happy to share the template with people on here.  Here the link to the vinyl. 
 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CR15YLK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

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I would probably patch those.

No need for a full floor.

I would advise you to just get your exhaust welder to weld it up. You could possibly bend up the patches for him to save some time

Lower the line under floor down and throw a wet rag over it.

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