The valve assembly looks great, and it looks fantastic for having been renewed for less than $100.

 

Yeah, as for the fuel tank, don't forget, time I have, money not so much.  😅

The reality is, I love doing this kind of work, and I've learned over the years that I can absolutely trust my work.  Since I have no profit motive, I can work and rework until I am quite happy.  Besides, it gives me great reasons to buy more tools!  Now I just need a place to put them.

 

11 hours ago, ETI4K said:

The valve assembly looks great, and it looks fantastic for having been renewed for less than $100.

 

Yeah, as for the fuel tank, don't forget, time I have, money not so much.  😅

The reality is, I love doing this kind of work, and I've learned over the years that I can absolutely trust my work.  Since I have no profit motive, I can work and rework until I am quite happy.  Besides, it gives me great reasons to buy more tools!  Now I just need a place to put them.

 

I agree, I prefer to do as much of my own work as I can.  There are certain items I try and leave for people that are really good and experience and proper and proper equipment.  The  fuel tank renew requires lots of specialized equipment and chemicals do really do it right and it’s cost prohibitive to have all that for 1 tank.   I really can’t bake my tank to put it into a acid bath and the weld up lines etc…. Same with this valve, I’d probably ruin it if I tried to bring it back to life and in the end cost myself more money and time. 

Made some progress on the heater core box mod to accommodate the Spectre aftermarket core.  Followed Captain Obvious’ write up on this. In the pics you can see the aluminum shelf I had to install to fit the thinner heat core.     Hopefully will have this all back in shortly so I can start the work on my new Vintage Dash swap out.  
Here are pics of the heater box and the mods.  Once I get the valve bracket and valves attached I will take it to the auto parts store to find hoses that will work.  Stock hose won’t work now because of where these new core pipes enter and exit at different locations than stock.  
Question: I’m making an assumption that it doesn’t matter which pipe is and “in” and which is the “out” on the Spectre Heater Core.  It made no mention of this the the supposed paperwork.  Anyone know?  

 

I wouldn't think it would matter on in/out

If I remember correctly from the Chem E Transport Phenomena class (using the classic textbook by Byrd, Stuart, and Lightfoot - I actually still remember the authors!) that I displayed a mediocre understanding of 36 years ago, for optimal heat transfer, I would think you want the inlet going to the bottom (think about the return on your radiator). 

I got the heater box all back together but ran into another problem.  The heater core pipes are too long and will cause a kink in the line without cutting it down.  I don’t have a pipe flare kit and with a flared end on the pipe I’m probably inviting a leak.  
 

Ylu can see in the pics what I’m working with . 
I also put a pic of the stock set up before removing everything.  You can see the pipe on the core closest to the firewall is a 90 deg bend immediately after leaving the heater box.  My pipe on the new core is ~3” longer so the bend is now a problem.  

Edited February 6, 20223 yr by Av8ferg

Is there enough room to just extend and use longer rubber hoses to achieve a more graceful, non kinking curve?

Also, I have seen wire coil springs used on the outside of the hose to prevent kinking at the bends.

Jim, that might be possible but that mounting bracket would probably interfere.



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Could you find a molder 90 bend and snug it on to the core deep enough to fit? I imagine you can gain a couple mm of clearance by sticking the core “into” the bend rather than leaving it in the straight portion. It may inhibit flow a little but I don’t see it being a huge deal? In lieu of a flare tool, do you have access to soldering equipment like used for plumbing? Last thought would be something like a PETG fitting. I know they are used in computer for water cooling and no flares are needed, allowing you to trim down your pipe as needed 

What is the overall curved length from the end of the valve to the core tubing and what does the ID of the hose need to be?

I've got an impressive bunch of original braided rubber hoses here at home with all sorts of molded curved sections to them.

Might be we can match up a length and ID from a section of one of them.

Edited February 7, 20223 yr by Zup
od to id

On 2/6/2022 at 8:48 PM, Zup said:

What is the overall curved length from the end of the valve to the core tubing and what does the ID of the hose need to be?

I've got an impressive bunch of original braided rubber hoses here at home with all sorts of molded curved sections to them.

Might be we can match up a length and ID from a section of one of them.

So, I was fortunate that a member on here was kind enough to cut and use a special tool to flare the pipe end so now I’ll have a easy 90 deg turn.   It was the best solution but I just didn’t have to tools to do it.  Great to have awesome people come to your rescue.  
 

 

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

Great to have awesome people come to your rescue.  

Totally agree with that John!

Glad your issue came to a successful resolution. Your research into a source for reconditioning the heater valve for the 280's is a huge help to anyone faced with the problem. Very significant!!