Putting in a replacement L-28

[Namerow]

Mike at Whitehead is an honest, but busy, guy and not famous for replying to emails.  I suggest you go old school and call him by telephone.

[Captain Obvious]

9 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

My front suspension is out so I thought I would check the clamps on my 7/70. I took the left clamp of and took measurements of the angle for the forward and rearward ends. The forward end measured 56 degrees and the rear measured 50 degrees, the bottom face was quite parallel for both end

Thanks for putting some quantitative numbers on my "they look different to me".

So are you sure the clamps were in the right way before you took them off? In other words... Are you sure about that "56 degree end goes in front and the 50 degree end goes towards the rear"? Has your rack ever been off the cross member before?

The rack I was messing with here when I noticed the difference had poly bushings in it, so I know some PO had been in there in the past. In other words... I have very little confidence that the straps were in the same position as when they first left the factory.

[Av8ferg]

I have my entire front suspension completely apart. Looks like a yard sale in my garage. The crust and caked on grime and dirt made it hard to even find some of the bolts. Had to pick it off with a screwdriver just to get the socket on many of the bolts.

I had a couple questions.
1. Koni vs KYB on the Eibach lowering springs? The guy at MSA on the phone was adamantly against the KYBs for lowering springs. They could/will bottom out on rough roads and they’re not warranted. Said the Koni are far superior and is what they’re recommend even for a daily driver.
2. New bump stops? Looks like you can only get poly as replacement. Any concerns there? If my old rubbers ones look fine, just keep them in or replace with poly so I don’t have to go back in there later?

Anything else I’m missing?

Getting a spring compressor tool tomorrow and getting the old springs off and get the struts down to powder coating.


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[Captain Obvious]

Also forgot to ask... @CanTechZ, did you check the angles on the cross member as well? Do they reflect the same differences that exist on the retaining straps? If so, that would also help positively determine the correct direction for the straps.

I have a cross member here that I could use to check, but I would have to spend some time just getting it clean enough to get good measurements. if yours is already clean enough?

[Racer X]

On 8/14/2021 at 5:04 AM, Av8ferg said:

So I was able to find rubber bushings for the steering rack but it seems people prefer the poly there.  I guess it provides better steering response? I just don’t want any squeaking so hopefully that’s not a problem.  I have rubber for all other bushings.   So Captain Obvious made an interesting observation regarding the steering rack brackets, the ones that connect the rack to the crossmember.  There are two half moon shaped brackets and looking at them they appear symmetrical but he had noticed a slight variation in them.  I went to test fit mine on the rack and discovered there is a front and back to these brackets.  If you put them on wrong there is a noticeable gap in the rear matting surface.  Astonishing, he was able to see the suttle difference in the way the bracket transitions to horizontal on the outer flange of the bracket.   See pics below.  
Also I was able to find a set of Eibach Lowering at California Datsun.  They way more money there but I don’t have a lot of options with COVID supply shortage on everything.  Anyway that vendor doesn’t delineate between 240z and 280z Eibach springs like all other online vendors. Can anyone confirm that the springs would in fact be different?  MSA has 240z Eibach springs but not 280z in stock.  This makes me think there is a difference.  Please pipe in if you know the answer or have an opinion about an alternative spring that is available, Votglands.  I need a solution, as I’m planing to build the rack and suspension back up in the next 14 days.  Sent the crossmember out for powder coat yesterday.  

The rear struts are different on the 240 and 280, the 280 struts are taller, by (if I recall correctly) about 40mm. So the rear springs are shorter on a 240, taller on a 280.

The fronts are the same height.

 

[CanTechZ]

14 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Thanks for putting some quantitative numbers on my "they look different to me".

So are you sure the clamps were in the right way before you took them off? In other words... Are you sure about that "56 degree end goes in front and the 50 degree end goes towards the rear"? Has your rack ever been off the cross member before?

The rack I was messing with here when I noticed the difference had poly bushings in it, so I know some PO had been in there in the past. In other words... I have very little confidence that the straps were in the same position as when they first left the factory.

Yesterday I only removed the left clamp and it definitely had the 56° angle end at the front. In '05 I had a mechanic friend replace the rack boots while doing other service at his shop. I don't believe that he removed the complete rack. As of yesterday there were factory yellow paint marks showing. It still has the original bushings. I've owned the car for 43 years and this was the only work I've had done to the rack.

 

 

However this morning I removed the the right side clamp and was surprised to find that it was installed opposite with the 50° angled end to the front, and 56° to the rear. Judging by the rust in the right clamp and twist of the bushing liner on the right side I think that it was backwards and the left  was correct. Here is a picture showing both OE bushing on the rack with the clamps off, 

 

Regarding the angles on the crossmember, I have not removed the rack yet. But I have a crossmember from a 12/70 parts car and was able to check the angles on it. Both right and left are the same, the next picture is right side front angle that measure 38°

 

The picture below is of the right side again, for the rear angle. The rear shape is different, it has angle change near the flat surface, I'm not sure how to describe that. The angle of the surface that is tangent to the curved clamping surface is approximately 32°

 

Would probably need to measure the angles on the rack as well to review this in the context of an assembly to confirm which way is correct for the clamps.

 

Edited August 15, 2021 by CanTechZ

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! Well that was inconclusive, so who knows?

All we know at this point is that while the retaining straps are asymmetric, maybe even Datsun didn't care which way they went in.  I mean, with so many people putting them in randomly over the years (because they never knew they were asymmetric), it clearly doesn't matter all that much.

Thanks for the measurements!

[Av8ferg]

I mentioned that I’m doing all the front suspension while the motor is out.  I’ve cleaned up and painted the steering rack but was wondering about the inner tie rods. 
- how do you know they’re in need off replacment

- read somewhere they are hard to find and only left side is available meaning you need a different outer tie rod,  

- found some for $50 each but don’t want to buy them if not needed. 

I didn’t tear down the rack,  it seemed to steer fine and hadn’t noticed any play, is this a mistake?

The suspension is a dirty job and it had caked on stuff everywhere.  Incredible it could be that bad. 
 

 

Edited August 19, 2021 by Av8ferg

[Racer X]

14 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

I mentioned that I’m doing all the front suspension while the motor is out.  I’ve cleaned up and painted the steering rack but was wondering about the inner tie rods. 
- how do you know they’re in need off replacment

- read somewhere they are hard to find and only left side is available meaning you need a different outer tie rod,  

- found some for $50 each but don’t want to buy them if not needed. 

I didn’t tear down the rack,  it seemed to steer fine and hadn’t noticed any play, is this a mistake?

The suspension is a dirty job and it had caked on stuff everywhere.  Incredible it could be that bad. 
 

 

If the tie rod ends have any play they should be replaced. The easiest way to check for play is when everything is still assembled. Have someone move the steering wheel while observing the steering.

You mentioned the steering is tight, if so they should be fine.

[Av8ferg]

Engine cross member just got back from powder coating. $55 total strip, treat and then powder coat it satin black. Wish I too a before pic. Looked terrible! Got all the suspension parts there now. Will be ready on Monday. Still waiting on my Springs from Whitehead ? I hope he comes through!

I put the car on a couple home built rolling dollies. (Each is rated at 1000 lbs and the boards are screws together so to snuggle the frame rails) I’ll push the car out of the garage tomorrow

and degrease and power wash the engine bay and front wheel wells before some spot paint and cosmetic rust clean up.






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[Av8ferg]

Operation Degrease complete:







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[Av8ferg]

Okay, so after the intense power wash, it has revealed the areas I need to get painted. Everything you see in the pics is perfectly solid metal but the drivers side has had the painted stripped off exposing the bare metal which I assume it due to years of brake fluid leaking on this area which we know is corrosive and damages paint. I have bought matching 110 Red paint and will spray this area soon. I need to sand the metal clean and then get a coat of primer on here. I’m going to paint the entire drainers side engine bay frame rail. Passenger side it perfectly fine.
Anyone recommend a solid primer?





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