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Putting in a replacement L-28


Av8ferg

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[mention=32672]Av8ferg[/mention] I won’t be using any of my oem hvac system besides the control panel. I can send you some photos of what I have in hopes it can help. I’m not sure how operational it is since I never tried to use it and it sat for 20 years. Let me know [emoji106]

That Is very kind of you and I’m happy to accept. Let me know what you want in return. I can pay you or give you some extra parts you might need. I’ve acquired quite a collection and won’t be using much of it. I have an extra freshly plated hood latch as well as a bin of freshly plated parts I won’t be using. They had a base rate so I threw in extra parts on my last plating order.
Thanks again !!!




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3 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

Cliff, everything is pretty much toast. Finally got the heater core out….it looks shot too. Now I have to find one and from the looks of it I won’t be a stock heater core. I saw the Captain Obvious used a alternative core from an Escort . I might have to do something like that. I’ll have to pick his brain. Pain….every time I cross one hurdle I get two more thrown at me.




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If you find you need to move away from the stock AC, Vintage Air and Nostalgic AC both have evaporators with heater cores.

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21 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

My latest struggle…removing the the heater core OMG is this an PITA. Any words of wisdom? So far disassembly is a guessing game, just removing screws and trying to get access to this thing. I’m sure it won’t be easy to find a replacement either.
Here’s where I’m at!

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First step in heater core removal is learning new swear words.

Once removed, separate from the HVAC assembly, then take it to a competent radiator repair shop. They should be able to recore it for you.

With the cost of brass these days it won’t be cheap.

Good luck.

 

 

 

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Here are some pics of my heater core.  I’ve email two companies that rebuild them  and sent them pictures to get a quote,  the heater control valve is another story,  anyone know what this copper wire that attached to it?   I’m guess it’s some sort of sensor to send to the valve to open and close and it looks difficult to remove.  What happens if just remove the valance all together, does that mean you get either full hot or no heat?   I’m not sure if my valve is functioning, repairable or just trash?  It looks pretty rough.  
 

 

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Couple pieces of input.

The metal end-cap on the heater core where the inlet and outlet tubes are attached should just pull off. If you're going to send the core out, don't send that end cap. It's just one more piece to get misplaced along the way.

And as for the tube coming out of the valve... Yes, that's an automatic temperature compensation feature that is supposed to regulate the temperature of the heater core. There's supposed to be compressed gas inside that capillary tube (freon maybe? Nitrogen maybe?) that expands and contracts with the temperature and opens/closes the valve accordingly.

But, that said... None of that probably works anymore. The gas has probably leaked out, and the valve has probably either frozen up solid inside, or the seal inside has turned to dust and dissolved into the coolant over the years. In any event, I would be very surprised if that valve is any good at all.

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[mention=32672]Av8ferg[/mention] I wish you success on this endeavor, Your efforts will help guide people like myself who will be attempting this in the near future.

That’s a dangerous thought!


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So I did some research on the interwebs last night and have come to a couple conclusions. 

- and aftermarket or OEM heater cores that were meant for the S30 are not available.

- rebuilding an old one is cost prohibitive.  My quote came in at $415 plus shipping.  🤮

-stock heater control valves….none available for the 280z. You can find 240Z and 280zx , not sure if they’re compatible or what you lose if you do use them.  240Z probably more compatible than the ZX due to mounting point. 
 

So here is some good news….the dimensions of the 280z heater core is 7”x 6.75”x 3”.  There is ones for cars that are almost the same size, most are 2” thick.   I found several and price ranges between $40 and $120 depending on brand and copper vs aluminum.  Like Captain Obvious did, you’d have to make a 1” shelf for the core to sit on or it would  be banging around in there on the Pot holes all over Philly 😂.

Now the heater control valve.  I think I found a possible candidate for replacement with the temp control feature as in the later 280z ( ones with copper wires). A 1971-1974 Jaguar Hester control is almost identical except the spring Cntrl is on the opposite side.  See pics below.  I’d like someone who is more familiar look at the photo of the Jaguar one and see what you think about compatibility. The vacuum section looks similar too for the other half but the mount I’d on the wrong side.  It looks like Nissan may have copied the Jaguar one or vise versa.   Also the Jaguars ones are available from several retailers. 
 

Thoughts?

 

 

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Persistence once again prevails.  I’ve been searching for a heater valve replacement and it not been going well.  My style valve is no longer obtainable and alternates have fitment concerns.   But I found a guy in WI that rebuilds them.  I’m sending him both the vacuum AC valve and heater valve where is will inspect and recondition.  Price is reasonable considering the cost of replacements.  $100 plus shipping and he has a 24 hr turnaround time.  
 

Here’s what mine look like right now.   
 

http://heatervalves.net/

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