HELP Wanted! How do I remove this shift shaft/striking rod in 280Z 5 speed?

[SteveKinSC]

Im rebuilding a 5 speed from a 77 280Z and want to include the seal and o-ring on the striking rod assembly in the tail of the trans. It was clearly a leak. There is no access hole in the side of the case as shown in the service manual. How do I remove this retaining pin on the striking rod? I tried to fabricate a tool out of a small c-clamp but cannot get in there...no room. Has anyone overcome this? I hate to do this complete overhaul without this seal. 

[Yarb]

@EuroDatcould possibly help you on this one.

[zKars]

This has been discussed and solutions provided in another thread, do a bit of searching. 

It is much trickier in the early 5 speeds that don't have the reverse lockout device. That pin is quite tight.

I built a little press thingy that slips over the rod, but the easier method is to drill the case where the reverse lockout would be, use a punch to get the pin out,  then put an NPT pipe plug back in the new hole to seal it. 

Once you find the thread and read what others have done, the solution will come to you

[EuroDat]

Like zKars said, there is a thread that details methods to remove it.

I have used a small massive hammer, one with as much weight as possible and small. Unscrew the nut until it is flush with the end of the thread. Tap it with the hammer until it comes loose.

If it won't release than add heat to the striking lever area around the pin and tap it out. Don't heat the pin. You wont the lever to expand, but not the pin itself.

If you damage the pin, you can still get them through Nissan or local parts store. I think the size is 9.5mm IIRC. Ask for a 9.5mm cotter pin.

[SteveKinSC]

1 hour ago, EuroDat said:

Like zKars said, there is a thread that details methods to remove it.

I have used a small massive hammer, one with as much weight as possible and small. Unscrew the nut until it is flush with the end of the thread. Tap it with the hammer until it comes loose.

If it won't release than add heat to the striking lever area around the pin and tap it out. Don't heat the pin. You wont the lever to expand, but not the pin itself.

If you damage the pin, you can still get them through Nissan or local parts store. I think the size is 9.5mm IIRC. Ask for a 9.5mm cotter pin.

Thanks all. I appreciate the input, but please....tell me how a hammer is going to fit down there. I cannot remove that shaft without removing the striking lever. Catch 22. I ran out of patience searching threads but I will keep trying. 

[Yarb]

The last thread was somewhat recent. Back around May iirc

[Patcon]

Google works well to search the site

[Zed Head]

I think it's in this thread, below, somewhere.  It's very difficult and the method you end up using will probably depend on your own individual skills with various tools, and knowledge of how metal things work.  One key point seems to be to brace the rod by putting a solid object between it and the case, so that you can apply force without damaging the rod.

 

[EuroDat]

Yoh can read this one too.

 

[heyitsrama]

 

This is how i did it, does your bolt not line up with the access hole? might have to make a little clamping tool....

[Zed Head]

7 hours ago, SteveKinSC said:

There is no access hole in the side of the case

He ain't got no access hole...

[jonathanrussell]

I spent hours on this trying many ideas. What finally worked for me was....

1) Loosen the nut until it is flush with end of the bolt.

2) Heat fork...several cycles.

3) Then, I used a long 3/8 socket extension. I rested the side of the male end of the socket extension on the nut head. Then, I hit the side of the extension with a bfh until it released. To be clear...I was not resting the end of the socket extension on the nut end and reaching a hammer inside the case. The socket extension is horizontal....parallel to the transmission shafts. The side of the male end of the socket extension rests on the nut. I hit the side of the shaft from just outside of the case with a bfh...being careful to not let the extension slip off of the nut head. This is hard to explain with words so I hope I am being somewhat clear. After several solid hits, the bolt moved.

Edited July 21, 2021 by jonathanrussell