I accomplished this in a similar way. Piece of steel bar into the case resting on the nut end. Hold the other end and hit as close a possible to the nut

Thanks everyone...Its clear its patience and persistence. 

  On 7/21/2021 at 1:42 AM, jonathanrussell said:

I spent hours on this trying many ideas. What finally worked for me was....

1) Loosen the nut until it is flush with end of the bolt.

2) Heat fork...several cycles.

3) Then, I used a long 3/8 socket extension. I rested the side of the male end of the socket extension on the nut head. Then, I hit the side of the extension with a bfh until it released. To be clear...I was not resting the end of the socket extension on the nut end and reaching a hammer inside the case. The socket extension is horizontal....parallel to the transmission shafts. The side of the male end of the socket extension rests on the nut. I hit the side of the shaft from just outside of the case with a bfh...being careful to not let the extension slip off of the nut head. This is hard to explain with words so I hope I am being somewhat clear. After several solid hits, the bolt moved.

Thanks. Your description is clear. That sounds like the only option short of a special tool. I will persist! 

 

FYI... After practicing once on a junk transmission, I drilled an access hole so I could get a drift pin in there to drive out the wedge pin like ZKars said. I then tapped the hole I had made and threaded a bolt into it to seal it up. You just have to be very careful in locating where to drill on the outside. I'll add a photograph tomorrow.

BTW  I also tried to fabricate a small c-clamp to no avail. 

Edited July 22, 20213 yr by Jeff Berk

  On 7/22/2021 at 1:50 AM, Jeff Berk said:

FYI... After practicing once on a junk transmission, I drilled an access hole so I could get a drift pin in there to drive out the wedge pin like ZKars said. I then tapped the hole I had made and threaded a bolt into it to seal it up. You just have to be very careful in locating where to drill on the outside. I'll add a photograph tomorrow.

BTW  I also tried to fabricate a small c-clamp to no avail. 

Thanks. I was afraid to drill the housing but its clear Nissan knew this sucked so they provided an access hole later. When you plugged the hole, was there a clearance issue inside? Any concern with interfering with the internals? 

there hole that is being used to access the pin is the hole for the reverse lockout mech. I doubt nissan was concerned about the pin removal.

That being said, I think a rattle hammer and backing up the rod with something solid (metal) would release the pin quickly.

  On 7/22/2021 at 1:41 PM, Dave WM said:

there hole that is being used to access the pin is the hole for the reverse lockout mech. I doubt nissan was concerned about the pin removal.

That being said, I think a rattle hammer and backing up the rod with something solid (metal) would release the pin quickly.

Oh...good point. Im determined to go at this thing this weekend. 

slow brute force is a good way to bend things. You want sharp small impacts. Double nut it so you have something solid to rattle on, back up the rod with metal (not wood), hit it with the impact hammer. I learned my lesson about using impact when I tried to remove the rear stub axle with a slide hammer. It was the 1st time I used the slide hammer with the puller designed for hubs. The fitting did not exactly match up hole wise, but I was able to loosely get it to fit with some wheel nuts. I tried whacking the hammer a bunch, nothing happened. I was looking at youtube some some mentioned getting the puller on tight.

I just assumed even loosed the force would be transmitted eventually with the slide hammer. I went back and did a better job and got the fitting on tight to the hub. One half a$$ try and the hub popped out. Sharp impacts and dont let the force dissipate (like the rod would do if not backed up) is crucial.

Here's what my transmission looked like after adding the access hole.