be careful with the bellows/boots, their like $80 a pop 😞

You can find them cheaper looking for 4 wheeler accordion boots. The stainless bands for those cv boots are the way to go too. I've been down this road, believe me.

Motorcycle shops have that stuff but it's higher than a giraffes arse. I bought mine off the www.com

Edited July 24, 20213 yr by siteunseen

@siteunseen I recognize those rotors - you get them from MSA? I got a set, with the ceramic pads as well. Stops on a dime and only squeaks once a day! Looks sexy too...

I think I got them from amazon.com for a lot cheaper. Stop Techs I think and they do stop on a dime. No squeaking either, just like you say. 

Another proven by me thing is no brake dust with ceramic pads. My wheels are always shiny. Ceramic, it's not just for high heat coating. 👍

Edited July 24, 20213 yr by siteunseen

On 7/23/2021 at 4:41 PM, heyitsrama said:

be careful with the bellows/boots, their like $80 a pop 😞

I believe I already bought them at zcardepot, they were $20 a piece. I installed the outer tie rods (Moog) just the other day and had the car aligned, happy to say about 70% of my shake is gone but there was still the obvious inner rod play, just waiting to get those delivered with the boots.

Only installed the outer tie rods because I had a track day yesterday, aside from a fire starting on my headers or one of my webers, the car ripped and handling felt a lot better too. I'll update with pictures when I get the inners on

Oh nice! Hopefully no damage to the car from the fire? 

Edited July 25, 20213 yr by heyitsrama

21 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Oh nice! Hopefully no damage to the car from the fire? 

No damage done, the k&n breather I had for the crank case blew off but that's about it, drove the car an hour home after the incident. I have breathers/filters on the valve cover and pcv, I'm pretty sure oil was coming out of them when I was doing hard cornering so I'll have to get an oil catch can. You can see what I mean in the picture.

Question do you know if I can run one catch can for both of would two separate catch cans be better?

You can run 1 catch can for both. It shouldn't be spitting out too much oil. If it is, check your compression.

oooooo very shiny. I think you can run just 1 catch can, and have a splitter that joins right before they input into the can. Something like

I've been wanting to run a catch can too, my beef is I don't like how they fit in the engine bay, i kinda want it tucked...

Do you feel you chassis flexing in turns on the track? I notice you're not running any bracing.

 

2 hours ago, SteveJ said:

You can run 1 catch can for both. It shouldn't be spitting out too much oil. If it is, check your compression.

Sweet, thank you for the input. And compression was fine, I did a test about 3 months ago I remember all cylinders were around 140-160 which I know is low for a Z but shouldn't be extremely bad imo.

35 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

oooooo very shiny. I think you can run just 1 catch can, and have a splitter that joins right before they input into the can. Something like

I've been wanting to run a catch can too, my beef is I don't like how they fit in the engine bay, i kinda want it tucked...

Do you feel you chassis flexing in turns on the track? I notice you're not running any bracing.

 

Sweet thanks, I'll be ordering one later today then. Personally I like my engine bay to be clean, but if it means avoiding a fire I'll do it. And I actually just ordered TTT bracing, I honestly don't know if my chassis has a lot of flex or not but I definitely have a good amount of body roll

I think the t3 brace is a really good option. I built my own after their model. The body roll is what I wanted to minimize, I felt like when I was in a turn the front of the car was behaving like a wobbling ladder.

Small write up here:

https://specterbyte.com/cornering-stablity/

 

good thing you saved some pesos on the outers eh? 🙂

 

did you get the triangulation back to the firewall?

6 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

I think the t3 brace is a really good option. I built my own after their model. The body roll is what I wanted to minimize, I felt like when I was in a turn the front of the car was behaving like a wobbling ladder.

Small write up here:

https://specterbyte.com/cornering-stablity/

 

good thing you saved some pesos on the outers eh? 🙂

 

did you get the triangulation back to the firewall?

Actually my bad, I am getting Cusco for the front with the tri bar option from T3. and T3 Tri bar for the rear. Before my sway bars upgrade, the rear end of my car would wobble really bad coming out of a turn. I got ST sway bars and the problem went away. I am sure there is some flex going on that I just can't feel but it's nice to know strut bracing will make  a decent difference.