Getting the 73 Back on the Road

[SteveJ]

Tonight's goals were

1. Drain the old coolant out of the radiator
2. Remove the carburetor cooling lines and plug the thermostat housing
3. Replace the generic lower radiator hose with a properly formed one

This was a good thing to do. Many of the hoses for the carburetor coolant lines (and EGR) were just about rotten. I got the new lower radiator hose on, and with a lot of effort I got the hard line for the carburetor coolant lines removed. I bought a 5/8 elbow to replace the 3-way fitting, but I realized that I should have purchased a 3/4 elbow. After some sleuthing online, I found the 3/4 elbow and ordered it. The thermostat housing is plugged, and I can finish the rest after I get the elbow later this week.

While I'm waiting for the plumbing, I can start installing the LEDs that should start arriving tomorrow. I want to take some load off the parking light circuit.

If I'm lucky, the tires will be here before the end of the week, too.

So let's set a date. I think I should be ready for a shakedown cruise in a couple of weeks.

[SteveJ]

Easy night for me tonight because I'm running out of parts I need to put on before the first test drive. 

I installed LED bulbs on the markers and turn signals. I also had to replace the left front marker because corrosion had taken its toll on that poor lamp socket. Fortunately I already had a replacement in my parts stash. I also installed the license plate light I purchased from @jfa.series1. It looks good, Jim.

I was going to install the horns today, too, but the Amazon envelope with the horns was empty when it arrived. Fortunately Amazon customer service immediately dispatched another set, so I might have them tomorrow. After I get the horn relay, elbow for the heater hose, and new tires, I will be ready for a road test. Considering how it had been off the road for 11 years, it's not bad that it's almost ready to roll in just about a month and a half.

[SteveJ]

Yesterday I spent a little time to pick up a lot of the tools that were collecting around the car. Today I decided to address the horn issue. I bought some Hella horns, and I took off the first stock horn. After I unplugged it, I noticed the accumulation of 30+ years of dirt and corrosion. I took a wire brush to clean the electrical contacts and tested the horn. It worked just fine. So I put it back in the car. I pressed the horn button a couple of times, and the horn still worked. Okay, so the horn relay is good, too.

I unbolted the other horn, and it fell right into my hand after I removed the second bolt. It wasn't even hooked to its wire. D'oh! It's probably been like that for over 28 years. I cleaned the electrical contacts and bolted it back in. After a couple of presses on the horn button, the second horn came to life. Okay, I have spare horns, and tomorrow, I'll take delivery of a spare horn relay.

With the horn in working order, I took off the lug nuts and loaded the tires into the station wagon. Tomorrow the wife will take the tires to the tire store where they will be replaced with some Falken Azenis RT615K+ tires, 195/60R14. Yes, I found a performance type tire that will fit on the old Iron Cross wheel. So the old girl rests quietly waiting for the night.

[grannyknot]

17 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

Tomorrow the wife will take the tires to the tire store where they will be replaced with some Falken Azenis RT615K+ tires, 195/60R14. Yes, I found a performance type tire that will fit on the old Iron Cross wheel.

I have those on the 510 atm, very happy with them.

 

[SteveJ]

The tires are mounted on the wheels, and the wheels are on the car with the lugs torqued. I got the cooling system back together, filled, and burped. (Yes, I remembered to run the heater to get the air out.)

The oil pressure looked good when I ran the engine to burp the cooling system. I'll leave the oil as is for the test run, but I'll be changing it soon. The fuel gauge doesn't budge, but I'm guessing that I need to replace the sending unit. I need to double check to make sure I didn't knock a wire loose on the sender when I was messing around with bypassing the electric fuel pump.

I checked the turn signals again today. They didn't want to flash with the LEDs, but I tracked down an electronic flasher, and all was good again.

Tomorrow I'll put on the registration sticker and get the paperwork in the car. I might even test it tomorrow.

 

[SteveJ]

I couldn't wait, even with the heat of the day pounding down on me. I had to do the test drive. I cleared out a path to back out of the garage, buttoned up the car, and set up the camera. This would be the first time since April 2010 that the car has moved under its own power. 

I backed it out of the garage and started recording. With a stock engine and suspension, it feels so different from the modified 260Z. I started down the road and noticed that the steering wheel is pointed toward 2 o'clock. I'll fix that tomorrow. There was also quite a tick from the valvetrain. I'll check the valve lash tomorrow, as well. You can hear it in the video when I pull back into the garage.

The drive was uneventful. I just went down the road a couple of miles and drove it back home. It came up to temperature nicely, and the oil pressure was good. Of course, this description is no measure of my satisfaction of getting the car back on the road.

Tomorrow I plan on washing the car, vacuuming out the interior, and tackling the tasks mentioned earlier. If I get done soon enough, I may also change the oil. It's been a few years since I last did that on this car. Then I have fix the gas gauge. Otherwise, I've VERY happy with where I am with this car.

 

[ETI4K]

Not as fun as driving it, but I had a blast from the passenger seat!

[SteveJ]

First bath in a LONG time.

[Reptoid Overlords]

Any leads on that tick?

[SteveJ]

54 minutes ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

Any leads on that tick?

I'm glad you asked. 😉 I checked the valve lash. By the way here's a chart I like to make before starting in order to keep track of what I have checked/adjusted. I just put an "X" for each one as I knock them out.

So I adjusted the valves. I finally have done it enough that I can do it quickly.

After that I went to adjust the timing, and I could still hear the tick. I used a mechanic's stethoscope on the valve cover, and all of the sounds were nice. I took a short video and sent it to a very good friend who taught me a lot about wrenching on Zs. He confirmed one of my possible causes. He believes it's an exhaust leak. At least I can check that, and I probably have at least one intake/exhaust gasket lying about.

[siteunseen]

I hear ya' on the chart. What got me doing it was 2 at a time come up so the chart cuts my time in half. Great when it's hot.

 

Edited August 29, 2021 by siteunseen

[SteveJ]

I decided there was enough time in the day to do a few more little things to the Z. I changed the oil, inspected the reverse switch (no continuity in reverse), and changed out the sending unit at the gas tank.

Since I knew I replaced the reverse light switch many years ago, I decided to figure out if it might be a part number issue. I searched CarPartsManual.com for the reverse switches for the 4 speed and the 5 speed. A previous owner swapped in an early 5 speed. It's the same part number. I ordered the switch from Courtesy Nissan. I'm hoping that the aftermarket part I tried 24 years ago was just not made correctly. I'll find out in about a week or so.

Aside from trying the new switch when I get it and replacing the intake manifold gasket next Saturday, I'd say my odyssey of getting the 240Z back on the road is pretty much complete.

I owe a lot to my local friend, Tim McGovern, and all of the people who have posted here over the years, especially Philip @240260280, for all that I have learned. It's simply amazing all of the knowledge I have accumulated over the last 10 years.