Front Frame Headlight Support Parts?

[Namerow]

On 8/5/2021 at 10:14 PM, ArcticFoxCJ said:

I certainly will.  It'll be a while though, package tracking estimates delivery in December...

Cost was $100 including shipping.  The part itself was about $66.  (Ish... exchange rate being what it is.)    

Remarkable quality for this price.

[ArcticFoxCJ]

Just wanted to offer an update on this, because as I get closer to using the hood support piece I'm going to have to decide on how I will weld it in.  I've been going very slowly in the replacement piece to repair that huge rusted gash, and it's messy (I'm still a newb) but getting there.  In places where it wouldn't interfere with the hinge support I reverted to patching rather than butt welding, because I was blowing a lot of holes.

The question I'm struggling with is... Should I get a spot welder to do this, or can I weld it in using my mig (flux core) welder?

 

Edited September 19, 2021 by ArcticFoxCJ

[heyitsrama]

I don’t use a spot welder (although I’m open to buying one) rather I drill holes in the plate then use shielded mig welding to “spot” weld it into place.

What kind of welder do you have? Does it support adding shielding gas? Your welds will come out cleaner. Someone on this site convinced me to switchwhen I was working on my floor pans, and I never went back to flux. I think it was Grannyknot.

 

watch how this guy works, he has some Japanese cars he’s working on.

https://youtube.com/channel/UC6JPmJ_aicru8XPWr3EvJnw

[Patcon]

Flux core is not the way to make this repair in my opinion.

You need gas and mig with a decent duty cycle.

If you're burning holes, then your current is too high or the metal is too thin. A welder with too low a duty cycle can also do this when overworked

[Mark Maras]

 I prefer flux-core for welding rusty, crusty or plated thicker steel. This paper thin sheet metal, if properly cleaned and has minimal gaps is best welded with a MIG using Argon or a Argon-CO2 mix if TIG is not an option.

[ArcticFoxCJ]

2 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

I don’t use a spot welder (although I’m open to buying one) rather I drill holes in the plate then use shielded mig welding to “spot” weld it into place.

What kind of welder do you have? Does it support adding shielding gas? Your welds will come out cleaner. Someone on this site convinced me to switchwhen I was working on my floor pans, and I never went back to flux. I think it was Grannyknot.

 

watch how this guy works, he has some Japanese cars he’s working on.

https://youtube.com/channel/UC6JPmJ_aicru8XPWr3EvJnw

Mine is a dedicated flux core welder, so I don't have the option of reversing the polarity and adding gas.  I'm coming at it as an absolute noob.  I was an ASE Certified Master Auto Technician 20 years ago but I never got into welding in any meaningful way.  My future son-in-law is a professional stick welder and he showed me a couple tricks but MIG/flux isn't his strong suit.    

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

Flux core is not the way to make this repair in my opinion.

You need gas and mig with a decent duty cycle.

If you're burning holes, then your current is too high or the metal is too thin. A welder with too low a duty cycle can also do this when overworked

I'm certain that it's the thin-ness of the metal.  It's 20 gauge cold rolled steel.  This welder is capable of a way higher duty cycle than I'm using it for here.  

I fully acknowledge that, as a newbie, this particular type of repair is diving into the deep end of the pool.

[heyitsrama]

Maybe your future son-in-law has a gas welder you can use for this... I wonder if changing the thickness for the flux core wire would allow you to reduce the heat going into the metal. Another thing you can try to do is make a heat sink of out of copper, I beat a copper pipe into a flat section that i clamp to the back of the metal, this allows some of the heat to be absorbed into the copper.

How much more welding do you have left? I assume the rest of the car? Might be worth while to pickup a gas-compatible welder. Checkout the panels after i ground them down, I used a finger sander from harbor freight, great for the tight spots.

Also imma just say it now, **** Airgas, go to a Praxair, or even better a mom and pop shop. My local Airgas has a bunch of shady sales people, overcharging for gas.

This 80 CFM tank should get you around 4 hours of trigger time, https://store.cyberweld.com/shielgascyl8.html the refill for me is ~60-70 bucks at Praxair, I bought the tank locally because I dont want praxair to go out of business and ill be stuck with airgas.... That cyberweld tank with the fill is probably the cheapest thing you'll find, but call local and see... if you do go down that route.

[ArcticFoxCJ]

14 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

Maybe your future son-in-law has a gas welder you can use for this... I wonder if changing the thickness for the flux core wire would allow you to reduce the heat going into the metal. Another thing you can try to do is make a heat sink of out of copper, I beat a copper pipe into a flat section that i clamp to the back of the metal, this allows some of the heat to be absorbed into the copper.

How much more welding do you have left? I assume the rest of the car? Might be worth while to pickup a gas-compatible welder. Checkout the panels after i ground them down, I used a finger sander from harbor freight, great for the tight spots.

Yeah I got a copper backing piece the other day... Sticks on with magnets.  Too late for this particular spot unless I start over but will come in handy as I continue... And yeah the rest of the car.  This was the first place I started welding on.  

As I feel more confident I am seriously considering the gas welder.  I feel like if I get it now, my skill level won't do it justice yet.

[heyitsrama]

@ArcticFoxCJ When I was taking art classes in college the professor said to get medium quality tools vs the cheap stuff... Being that there is more space to grow in your ability with the medium grade stuff.... (Not to say the flux core is cheap)I think you can learn much more when you are not fighting the blow through, or worried about how much heat is in the effected zone, this will enable you to feel more comfortable at a quicker pace if that makes sense. I currently use a Lincoln 3200 HD, but I had my eyes on a Tig welder from Everlast for even finer detail stuff. Everlast might have something that fits your application.

 

It was @grannyknot  here is the thread, some nice info about welding in that thread.

That copper magnet looks good to use, does it apply pressure between the panels? I use these ones too https://www.harborfreight.com/welding/welding-supplies/welding-lugs-clamps/butt-welding-clamps-8-pc-60545.html

 

 

[Mark Maras]

 The problem I've experienced with flux core and repeated small welds is the flux left on the finished weld. When it cools it prevents instant conductivity to start the arc when doing small welds. If it doesn't arc instantly you're left with a longer wire which will act like you've turned down your welder. You'll have success if you clean each weld before attaching another weld to it. I usually try for very small gaps and I run it a bit hotter (instant arc) than I would for a continuous weld. I would also suggest the smallest wire you can find and an auto darkening hood (for precision).

[ArcticFoxCJ]

7 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 The problem I've experienced with flux core and repeated small welds is the flux left on the finished weld. When it cools it prevents instant conductivity to start the arc when doing small welds. If it doesn't arc instantly you're left with a longer wire which will act like you've turned down your welder. You'll have success if you clean each weld before attaching another weld to it. I usually try for very small gaps and I run it a bit hotter (instant arc) than I would for a continuous weld. I would also suggest the smallest wire you can find and an auto darkening hood (for precision).

Thanks.  I do have the auto darkening mask, so there's that at least.  And yeah, I also learned through trial and error to keep the wire short!

Off the top of my head I forget the diameter of the wire I'm using now.

[Patcon]

I started with a 100 amp flux core. Then, I did a gas bottle on it. Now I have a Hobart 230, that is about the right size. The only real complaint I have is the 12 current settings versus infinite adjustment.

I run .023" wire with gas and normally weld on setting 1 or 2. .030 or .035 wire requires more current to puddle and that can make blow through holes. 20 ga really isn't that bad to weld but there are some super thin areas of the that are.

I have also found that unlike good golf clubs, a good welding machine make a welder much better. Unlike my golf game...

If you can afford it,  get the better machine now and learn it versus learning how to make the wrong machine get by.

I also agree, if there are gas services in your area that will fill privately owned bottles, go that route. I have a 99 year lease on my bottle so I exchange it at my local welders supply for a new bottle when its empty but no rental charges