I became curious as to whether there was a way to objectively measure gloss, shine, etc.  I found some interesting terms, such as DOI (distinctiveness of image) and RIQ (reflected image quality), and nice instruments that can measure all of that for $4-5K.  I also see simple glossmeters on Amazon for $150-200.  I almost expected to find an Android app that used the front-facing camera to analyze the image reflected from a test-pattern display, but was disappointed.

Anyhow, has anybody used such tools?

I'm trying to paint my 280Z, and I have no paint experience.  I'm disappointed in the level of 'shine' that I'm getting after wet-sanding, buffing, polishing, as compared to the un-cut clear coat.  Shallow-angle reflections look OK, but head-on reflections (e.g. my face) - not so much.  I don't know if I can just keep on polishing, or will I just polish away all the clear coat with no further improvement.

Is it possible to get a picture? I know it can be difficult to see in photographs.

You are using BC/CC?

How long has it been painted?

How many coats of clear?

What process are you using?

This is my reflection in the upper part of the door - I tried to mask the glare of the light with my head - sort of gives me a halo!

This is a reflection off the fender top:

The reflection is not well-defined.

The paint job used acrylic basecoat 3-4 coats, and urethane clearcoat, again 3-4 coats.  The fender was painted 2-3 weeks ago, and the door earlier than that.  I wet-sanded from 1000 to 3000 grit.  I had to go fairly deep with the 1000 grit to get all the orange peel (I said I'm not experienced).  I then used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Meguiar's Ultimate Polish (and also some of the stuff in the picture), all with a rotary polisher.  I've tried isolated areas by hand as well.

Thats roughly what I would have done. I think at this point I would ask a jobber (paint supplier) how to get better results.

Good idea!  I've given them $1-2K for the material so far, and still need more to finish, so I'll chat more with them when I go back.

Some clears shine up better than others. Maybe they will have a recommendation for how to bring it up some. They may have a finer polish too

These are the 2 polishing compounds I use, both are considered professional quality and I have had good success with them, a lot of the products that are offered at the big box stores are pretty watered down.  You might also want to have a look at this forum, https://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=7&sid=96df9ee49358224206cc6444bd0b90b4

Some really knowledgeable guys, guys who actually make their living doing finishing.

 

I'm pretty sure I've studied that forum before.  You guys may recall helping me last March when I first stated the painting.  I mostly had problems with solvent pop.  I still do, but not as much.

Now, I think I've just been too timid with the polish.  The guys on youtube are done after 5-6 passes.  I tried several more passes and now I get this:

I don't know if I can make it better (I killed my HF polisher trying), or if that's as good as it gets.  I suppose I could sacrifice the clear on one of the hood side flaps to see how far I can go (after I get another polisher).

It's possible that so much polishing is required because I didn't do enough compounding.  I figured that my goal there was to make all the orange peel disappear, and stop there.

Thanks again guys.

I sand for orange peel

Compound for partial shine and polish for good reflectivity

I have a makita 7" VS polisher. It's digital so it holds the speed no matter the load

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-9237C-7-Inch-Polisher-Sander/dp/B00LA6M64G

1 hour ago, Roberts280Z said:

Now, I think I've just been too timid with the polish. 

The compounds I mentioned are heavy cut compounds that break down in a very uniform way into polish,  If you start with polish your surface has to already be shiny.

I totally mistyped in an earlier post.  I don't compound for orange peel like I typed.  I rely on the 1000 grit for that, and then step through 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000.  But then I only compound once (5-6 passes), and move on to polish.  I should probably have done the compound a bit more before moving on to polish.

Going back to my original question - I thought it would be useful if I could use a glossmeter to show me the desired gloss from compounding, and then from polishing (given a reference point).

Really shouldn't be needed unless you are looking for a reason to buy one