Advice on replacing fuel lines to a '75 280 Z

[jj280z]

About a year ago I experienced hesitation when I had the car on the highway at about 70 mph. I got back home and asked for advice on where to look in the system. I got a response to remove the fuel filter and blow it out with compressed air. I did that and that seemed to be the end of the problem.

Now, a couple of weeks back I had the same thing happen, so I got the car back home and took off the fuel filter and did the same thing as before. I got a lot of particulate come out as I emptied the filter and then applied compressed air. I then took the car out the next week and it was worse than before. I took the filter off and got at least as much junk as before.

My questions are as follows:

Where is a good website/place to go find new metal fuel lines? How many fuel lines are there (pick up and return)?

I supposedly had someone redo my tank and recoat it so that it was good to go. Are there any fuels that are harder on the coating than other fuels or additives?

Should I suspect anything else like the fuel pump? It appears to be doing what it has always been doing. I didn't really want to pull the fuel lines off until I found some place to replace these hoses if I needed to do that.

Any suggestions and pointers are appreciated.

 

[Zed Head]

What was the particulate matter made of?

Blowing out the 280Z high pressure fuel filters is a quick emergency fix.  But replacing them with new is the right way.  They have a pleated element inside that isn't going to clean up by using backward flowing air.

There is one main supply line from the tank.  I'd get underneath and inspect it to see if it's damaged.  If it's not, maybe just buy a new filter and run it.  They're cheap and your local parts store might have them.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel---emissions-16775/carburetors---parts-16801/fuel-filter-water-separator-12305/6bf814fc80d2?q=fuel+filter

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,fuel+&+air,fuel+filter,6200

Edited August 6, 2021 by Zed Head

[siteunseen]

You should add a clear filter between the tank and pump also. Cheap and easy to check for crud that may be in your tank.

https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

 

 

[mailnome]

Not to be a D but I think those clear filters are not rated for the higher pressure of fuel injection.


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[siteunseen]

6 minutes ago, mailnome said:

Not to be a D but I think those clear filters are not rated for the higher pressure of fuel injection.


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Well you're not a D as far as I've seen. The filter fits between the tank and the high pressure EFI pump where there's nothing but drain from the tank. They're good BEFORE the high pressure pump.

[AK260]

To offer an alternative perspective: I’ve been seriously considering this


https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/malpassi-filter-king-regulator-large-glass-85mm-with-8mm-unions-fpr006



I have a fuel thank that was lined with the POR rustproofing stuff, that has now started to flake off causing some strange fish to appear in the fuel filter. The ONLY way to deal with it properly is to get the tank opened up, media blasted, treated and welded up again.

But what I like about the filter king is the big bowl that allows plenty of buffer when those conditions appear at WOT. It’s a sticking plaster I know!

Again, you have to decide what to put before the fuel pump as this is a post pump filter.

Lots of options from cheap ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sytec-Uprated-Fuel-Filter-8mm-In-Out-Fits-Nissan-Silvia-S15-SR20DET-/223910510203

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sytec-Motorsport-Clear-Glass-Fuel-Filter-For-Carburettor-8mm-Fuel-Hose-Tails-ADV-/273897052635


https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/fuel-filter-lf72.html

To quite expensive ...

https://www.carid.com/qrp/fuel-filter.html

Depends also on the fuel rate you are expecting.

[Zed Head]

These are made for vacuum, pull-through, applications.  Furnace oil.  Kind of kidding but if you needed something to get you by until you could fix the tank, they'll hold a lot of crud and don't hinder flow.  Put a ball valve in front and it's easy maintenance.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Filter-1A-25B-Standard-8-Inch/

Edited August 11, 2021 by Zed Head

[conedodger]

Classic Tube will make you new ones in stainless steel if you want. They do brake lines too.

[siteunseen]

I use Red-Kote with no issues so far, about 10 years on my 280 and 5 on the 240. After all the research, reading I did it was apparent how long I let it cure makes the successfulness of the process what it is or is not. @Bonzi Lon thank you for the advice.

I ran those glass fuel filters for the first month looking for pinkish colored fuel. After getting scolded by many folks I took them off fearing a leak and engine fire. Thanks @madkaw for scaring the bejesus out of me but they never leaked and served their purpose, no pink gas right before the fuel rail.

The low pressure on the carbed 240 was a no brainer but the 32'ish psi on the 280 was worrisome and I wound up with quality fuel extinguishers in both cars. Long road but it circled back around complete and everything is fine.

And I have the plastic filters right out of the tank on both cars. G2 on the 240, G3 on the 280.

Edited August 11, 2021 by siteunseen