Yes, they are brazed

thanks. i tried red loctite yesterday. not sure how long they need to set up. its been about 18 hours. i tried them gently and so far they work...not sure how they will handle any stress yet

The threadlock stuff is probably something like "90% strength after 24 hours, but could take up to a week to reach full strength". That's the typical ambiguous CYA cure statements they usually use. 

I think the CA based stuff requires steel ions and either moisture or lack of air to activate or something like that. There's a chance that the zinc plating on the hardware could slow it down some. In any event, I would be willing to give it a twist after it sat for 24 hours and see what happens.

I also know that tight fitting threads would hold better. Some of the hardware store stuff is so sloppy that you're asking the threadlock to fill too large of a gap.

Here's hoping you're good!

I’ve made Wally a set of my “new” reproduction air cleaner hardware. We he gets them, he can report on appearance and functionality.

The hex coupling nuts I used are 13mm wrench rather than the stock 14mm, and I make them by threading in an M8 bolt and locking it in place with a thin jam nut and red lock tight.  

The wing bolts are made from a M6 wing nut and an M8 bolt that has the end removed and turned down and threaded for M6 to attach the wing bolt. Red locktite and torque lock it in place.

My reproduction cup washer are included.

These are the raw materials.

Comparison of an OEM wing bolt (top) and mine. Ears are dang close to the same size and shape wize. Slightly different surface finish. 

Edited August 15, 20213 yr by zKars

zKars - they look great!  How much for a set?

Bolt set came in. I have an image for reference of all of it. i have also in the image for comparison an original 240z rabbit ear type bolt. You can see they are 

almost identical except the new ones look better. Also i put in a datsun roadster cleaner bolt which i know some have used. While it does work you can see its a little 

longer so the new ones work better.

 

On a side note..... i cant get my air filter and front cover on. There isn't enough room....it hits the bleeder valve i am pointing to on the brake cylinder...of course the new set

has nothing to do with this but anyone got an ideas why this is happening?  I do have 2 sets of gaskets on the back side of the air housing meeting up with the carbs....

if i remove them i can get the cover on but by a millimeter

Managed to get the cover on and bolted up. I had to take out that one bleed valve to do it though. Something definitely wrong

The filter and cover do not just slide straight down and over the backing place.  You have to put the filter in the cover then carefully work it on at an angle...lean the top towards the passenger side to get it past the airhorns then straighten it out and secure using the long wing bolts.  It is already a very tight fit so your second gasket may be just a tad bit too much depending upon how thick they are.

 

Edit:  Removal is the reverse of the above in case anyone else reading this asks.  🙂

Edited August 26, 20213 yr by texasz

On 8/22/2021 at 12:13 PM, DantePalazzo said:

zKars - they look great!  How much for a set?

Still working out a price, and very tight time wise to make any for awhile with the on-going restorations here.

Thinking about $40-$50 per set. I have to make them, then take them to the plater to get the areas that are machined re-coated. The raw parts come from the US, so I get exchange shipping and brokerage fees slapped on, many steps to create, couple of week turn around from the plater. I’ll try to add them to other plater parts to keep the cost of that incremental, but that adds turn around time. 

Like all custom parts, that seems like a boat load of $$ for a couple of bolts, but that’s the reality. 

Edited August 26, 20213 yr by zKars

11 hours ago, texasz said:

The filter and cover do not just slide straight down and over the backing place.  You have to put the filter in the cover then carefully work it on at an angle...lean the top towards the passenger side to get it past the airhorns then straighten it out and secure using the long wing bolts.  It is already a very tight fit so your second gasket may be just a tad bit too much depending upon how thick they are.

 

Edit:  Removal is the reverse of the above in case anyone else reading this asks.  🙂

Thanks. yeah, i tried it like that. i tried it every which way but loose....just a hairs width stops it. I dont want to have to remove the gaskets to make it fit. I shouldnt need to.

I am thinking about trying to find a bleed valve that is shorter.....maybe that would work

Any chance you have a motor mount problem?  

I like to browse around the BAT site to compare to other cars.  They take a lot of pictures.  I took a few looks and it does seem like they have more room than you do.  Here's a 71.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-187/

https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/?q=240z

 

My 7/70 looks to have similar clearance to the shock tower as yours but my Brake M/C has the bleeders on the opposite side. Here are a couple of captures from a video I did of my car before I took it apart for the resto I currently working on.