9 hours ago, SJZ said:

Racer X,

I got all the panels installed with the exception of the tail light panel. About half of the holes line up so going to have to do some engineering there. 

What brand did you buy? 
 

 

I bought them from Z Car Source and they are made by Dashtop. Guess I didn’t know there was more than one company reproducing them? 

7 hours ago, SJZ said:

I bought them from Z Car Source and they are made by Dashtop. Guess I didn’t know there was more than one company reproducing them? 

I’ll have to check where mine came from.

I bought them about a year ago, and haven’t had time to do the swap yet. As I recall the material felt a bit thicker, and it caused me to wonder about fitment.

I’ve removed panels from a couple of Z cars, but only replaced them in one, and I reused the original ones. It is a bit of fuss getting them in and out, making me wonder how it was done on the production line.

 

 

Removed the center console to replace the shifter boot and found this retainer bracket laying under the fuse block. Does it go under this bolt to hold up the choke cables?

Edited February 11, 20223 yr by SJZ

6 minutes ago, SJZ said:

Removed the center console to replace the shifter boot and found this retainer bracket laying under the fuse block. Does it go under this bolt to hold up the choke cables?

There is a L shaped piece shown in the diagram. It does look to be a different shape though. No reference number for that one of course. 

As it was just laying there, It might have come from further up in the dash. I am sure others will know. 

Been putting a few miles on the Z after getting the brakes working correctly over the weekend. Car seems to drive well although I can't get it to idle below 1500 RPM. Idle screws are backed out all the way, been spraying carb clean around everything looking for vacuum leaks to no avail.   

SU's use a piston to control air flow.  Might be that your pistons are stuck, among other possibilities.  Not sure how to fix that.

Have you tried the piston drop test? Lift both pistons all the way up with your fingers (there'll be considerable resistance) Then let them drop at the same time. They should drop at close to the same rate and land with an audible click when they hit bottom. If one is sticky, loosen the dome screws and try again.

The pistons look to fall at the same rate. I went through the carbs myself with the help of the ztherapy video replaced nozzles and needles. I have the nozzles down about 4 turns to run decent so that tells me there is a problem somewhere lol! The car does have a Clifford header so I would assume it needed richened some from stock settings probably not 4 turns though. 

What is your timing set at?  Also your float level is important on SU's as well.  If your timing is to advanced it will cause it to idle high.  If your float level is too high on the SU's it will allow more gas into the venturi.  Float level is critical on SU's. 

It shouldn't need 4 turns down to run decent. The float levels are the primary mixture adjustments. The nozzle screws are for fine tuning. How sure are you that the float levels are correct?

I'm going to check the float level again this weekend. What kind of initial timing is eveybody running with todays pump gas? My 360 Duster likes 16-20 initial which is way more than the factory recommended.