Odd issue with turn signal wiring/switch

[dhp123166]

THE PICTURE IS NOT THE SWITCH I SENT THIS CUSTOMER.

 

 

Thank you for the information.

You have shown why you are not getting proper results with the switch.

Your switch testing methodology is half right.

 

Maybe someone on this page can set you straight.

If not the internet is a wonderful source of information in every subject.

[SteveJ]

He didn't say it was his switch. He pulled the photo from the site of someone who documented a restoration of a Z. He used that photo because the site creator documented what wire goes where.

[eastcoastz]

Thank you @SteveJ

 

Once again @dhp123166 is putting words in my mouth. If you took a second to look at the picture you would see the caption from the WoodWorkerB site in the bottom left. Not to mention the fact that I never said this was my switch. 
 

How is my methodology half right?  You’re not making any sense. I’m telling you that when the switch is either in the up or down position. Neither of the left or right blinker solder points are showing any voltage.  I have tested all 4 points when the switch is up or down. 

 

[dhp123166]

53 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

He didn't say it was his switch. He pulled the photo from the site of someone who documented a restoration of a Z. He used that photo because the site creator documented what wire goes where.

In my opinion, a person looking at that picture without reading the fine print might assume that that is the switch which is being addressed in this post. 

[dhp123166]

32 minutes ago, eastcoastz said:

Thank you @SteveJ

 

Once again @dhp123166 is putting words in my mouth. If you took a second to look at the picture you would see the caption from the WoodWorkerB site in the bottom left. Not to mention the fact that I never said this was my switch. 
 

How is my methodology half right?  You’re not making any sense. I’m telling you that when the switch is either in the up or down position. Neither of the left or right blinker solder points are showing any voltage.  I have tested all 4 points when the switch is up or down. 

 

Instead of using that picture go find the diagram which shows continuity on the turn signal and brake circuits when they are closed and open.

Edited October 5, 2021 by dhp123166

[SteveJ]

15 minutes ago, dhp123166 said:

In my opinion, a person looking at that picture without reading the fine print might assume that that is the switch which is being addressed in this post. 

In my opinion, you're being a little too defensive.

Also, in my opinion this thread probably needs to be locked down before it gets any more heated. @Mike @bpilati Do either of you agree?

[dhp123166]

13 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

In my opinion, you're being a little too defensive.

Also, in my opinion this thread probably needs to be locked down before it gets any more heated. @Mike @bpilati Do either of you agree?

In my opinion I am being proactive in protecting my reputation and quality of work.  Heated? You call this heated? I don't see any heavy duty personal insults or profanity being thrown around.

That's right though, close it...cancel it. 

Et tu Brute?

Edited October 5, 2021 by dhp123166

[bpilati]

This thread isn't about a switch restoration process.  So let's assume it was in good working order after the restoration. The important question to answer is "Are we making progress resolving the problem?"

eastcoastz?

[eastcoastz]

I have not had a chance to do any further testing yet. Hopefully today or tomorrow and I will write back soon. Thank you for not locking this thread. I would appreciate being able to write my findings here to get additional help/suggestions. 

[SteveJ]

6 hours ago, eastcoastz said:

I have not had a chance to do any further testing yet. Hopefully today or tomorrow and I will write back soon. Thank you for not locking this thread. I would appreciate being able to write my findings here to get additional help/suggestions. 

You may want to start a new thread. It's hard to tell what diagnostics you have done with all of the non-helpful complaints from another person mixed in.

[dhp123166]

12 hours ago, bpilati said:

This thread isn't about a switch restoration process.  So let's assume it was in good working order after the restoration. The important question to answer is "Are we making progress resolving the problem?"

eastcoastz?

True. 

 

12 hours ago, eastcoastz said:

I have not had a chance to do any further testing yet. Hopefully today or tomorrow and I will write back soon. Thank you for not locking this thread. I would appreciate being able to write my findings here to get additional help/suggestions. 

 

 I could not find that rectangular circuit continuity diagram anywhere online. I only made a cursory Google search.

 

The circuits are what they are because Nissan design allows the brake lights to engage when the brakes are powered and also to individually flash along with whatever side turn signal is engaged.

Consequently, the functioning of the switch is not as simple as one wire controls one light.

The front and rear turn signals are controlled by the green striped wires on the circuit board sides and the green power wire on the center middle of the circuit board.

The rear brakes are controlled by the white striped wires on the circuit board sides and the green/ yellow power wire on the top middle of the circuit board.

The brake lights are also controlled by the green power wire when they are in flash mode.

 

Here is something I sketched up previously and forgot I had;

NOTE; The numbers on the diagram are arbitrary, they are there to show that there is continuity.

Where it states "NONE" means there is no continuity, my multimeter shows a blank when there is none. One multimeter used to have showed a "1" so either reading is correct for no continuity.

 

Edited October 5, 2021 by dhp123166

[eastcoastz]

Thank you for the diagram @dhp123166

I only had a few minutes to do some testing today.  I pulled the 5 pin connector and connected the test light directly to the pins on the connector.  Here is a picture showing what I got:

 

 

That being said the dash light did not blink/light when I connected the test light to these pins... not sure if it was supposed to or not.  I connected the turn signals back into the connectors in the front of the car, plugged the switch connector back into the harness, but unfortunately I'm still not getting turn signals.  Hazards are still working and I swapped the (brand new) relays from the turn signal to the hazards to ensure that I had a working relay on both. 

 

When I move the turn signal switch in either direction, I don't hear a click of the relay, however I do hear a click of the relay when I return the lever to the center which I thought was a little odd.

 

The turn signal lights that I'm using for testing is just a single filament two wire light.  Does anyone happen to know if the turn signals have to be a dual filament 3-wire light in order to work?  or should the existing (2-wire) ones suffice?

 

Any other suggestions/ideas for what to check?  @dhp123166sent a new "female" end for the connector, so I'm going to try to replace the original one to see if that helps at all.