dhp123166 Posted October 5, 2021 Share #25 Posted October 5, 2021 (edited) No problem eastcoastz. Front turn signal light bulbs have 2 filaments and 2 wires. Rear turn signal bulbs and reverse light bulbs have one filament and if I remember correctly both brake light bulbs have 2 filaments. Edited October 5, 2021 by dhp123166 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastcoastz Posted October 6, 2021 Author Share #26 Posted October 6, 2021 This is a drawing of the "female" side of the turn signal connector. My understanding is that the original turn signals consisted of 2 filaments and 3-wire (one wire for turn signal, one for the parking light, and one for ground). It seems as though the wiring to the turn signals is working properly since the hazards lights work... what am I missing? @dhp123166 - is it correct to assume that the new connector that you put on the turn signal switch should plug into the original stock connector or should I definitely replace the stock one with the new "female" connector that you included? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted October 6, 2021 Share #27 Posted October 6, 2021 You don't have to use the male part of locking connector, the female part of the connector will function as stock. Check for continuity on the green wire to green/ red wire while the lever is to the left. Check for continuity on the green wire to green/ black wire while the lever is to the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastcoastz Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share #28 Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) @dhp123166 - I did some more testing this afternoon. When the lever in up (right signal) and put my multi-meter on the continuity setting, I am showing continuity between green-->white/black and green-->green/red. If I switch my multi-meter from the continuity setting to the Ohms setting, I get .00 on these connections, however if I put one probe on the green and one on the green/black or white/red (while the lever is up), then the Ohms reading is .20. The situation reverses if I have the lever down... meaning if I hold my probes on the green and green/red or white/black, I get .20 Ohms and .00 when the probes are on the green and white/red or green/black. This seems to be the reverse of what you are showing it should be in the diagram that you sent. Do you need me to send you a video showing this? Edited October 7, 2021 by eastcoastz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted October 7, 2021 Share #29 Posted October 7, 2021 . 27 minutes ago, eastcoastz said: @dhp123166 - I did some more testing this afternoon. When the lever in up (right signal) and put my multi-meter on the continuity setting, I am showing continuity between green-->white/black and green-->green/red. If I switch my multi-meter from the continuity setting to the Ohms setting, I get .00 on these connections, however if I put one probe on the green and one on the green/black or white/red (while the lever is up), then the Ohms reading is .20. Ok this shows that you have closed circuits whether you are calling it continuity or ohms on the right side when the lever is in the right position and making a connection of the correct contacts. 29 minutes ago, eastcoastz said: @dhp123166 - I did some more testing this afternoon. The situation reverses if I have the lever down... meaning if I hold my probes on the green and green/red or white/black, I get .20 Ohms and .00 when the probes are on the green and white/red or green/black. The lever left is controlling green and white/red and green/ black ( as stated at the end of the sentence) not green/ red and white/ black like you have written in the middle of the above sentence. This supports what I have written in the diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastcoastz Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share #30 Posted October 7, 2021 Just to make sure we're on the same page, here is a table showing my values compared to the values that show in your diagram. My values appear to be opposite (reverse of) what your diagram is showing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted October 7, 2021 Share #31 Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) Please show me your plug wires where they meet the plug. Edited October 7, 2021 by dhp123166 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastcoastz Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share #32 Posted October 8, 2021 @dhp123166 Please let me know if this is what you’re looking for. I also attached a video showing you how the ohms readings are reversed from your diagram when the lever is in the up position. IMG_5761.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted October 9, 2021 Share #33 Posted October 9, 2021 Thank you for the pictures. When you stated that the turn signal switch circuits seemed to be reversed, I immediately knew what I might have done wrong; I thought I might have switched the turn signal wires when replacing the plug. But they are where they should be as you can see by comparing to the attached pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastcoastz Posted October 14, 2021 Author Share #34 Posted October 14, 2021 @dhp123166 I got the turn signals working. Thank you very much for all of your help! It turns out that even though I had 12v at the green wire coming into the flasher maybe it wasn’t a “strong” 12v. I connected a new 12v lead to the flasher (as a test) and the turn signals work now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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