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Anyone know a place to restore an original 240z Hitachi Regulator?


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I'm doing a rotisserie restoration and would prefer to get this regulator restored.  I can get the cover and screws re-plated, but does anyone know a place that can restore the rest (re-plate the base while not hurting the electrical parts)?

IMG_20211005_200237.jpg  IMG_20211005_200248.jpg

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The thought has crossed my mind about installing an electronic regulator inside the mechanical reg's box.  Kind of like using a GM HEI module inside the box of an older ignition module.

But if you want to keep what you have why not just drill the rivets or whatever is holding the parts and then replicate them after replating?  

Here's an example of an internal regular that might work inside the metal box.  You'd need to find the pin diagram but I think that it should work.  I picked a Nissan one but they're all the same general principle.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=45661&cc=1209350&pt=4884&jsn=384

 

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I think ZH nailed it about drilling out the rivets. If you're absolutely insistent on running a stock regulator (guts included), then I think that would be your only option. There's no way the electronics would do well in the plating process and you would have to remove them first.

I guess maybe, just maybe... There might be a company who specializes in this sort of thing where they would pot the sensitive bits in some sort of compound to prevent the plating fluids from making contact where you don't want them.

But I think it would be easier to drill the rivets out and desolder the guts to remove them. Not "easy" at all, but probably "easier".

If it was a matter of life-n-death, I could also picture some sort of sealed dam walls being glued/sealed to the base to build a wall around the guts. Some creative walling and partial submersion to just the right depth might work too. But there's no way I would want to hand a part like that to someone else and ask them to plate it. It would have to be you doing it yourself with a home kit.

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I thought about drilling out the rivets, but they are directly in center line with the two cylinders (in the guts) of the mechanism.  I think there are posts running though the center of those and through the mounting plate and the shaft ends are folded down - as the "rivets".  So, if I drill them out, I won't be able to just replace them with rivets because the cylinders will not be re-attached to the mounting plate. 

Replacing the guts seems like a better option, but I will say I am not knowledgeable about automotive wiring/circuits.  6 wires on the original and 3 on the Ford... now what? 

LOL

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