Which Clutch Slave Cylinder To Buy?

[texasz]

I thought that this had been discussed yet I could not find the thread via search.

 

I have a series 1 car (1970 240Z) with a 5 speed.  I'm replacing the clutch slave cylinder and wanted to ask which one I should buy?  There is the manually adjustable one which appears to be for the 1970-1972 and has a hole for the return spring then there is the non-adjustable one without the hole for the return spring which appears to be for 1973-1983.  These are available from MANY sources so I'd also be interested in which you have had good or bad experiences with so I can further narrow down the one to buy.

[SteveJ]

Here is OEM:

70-73: https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-cylinder-slave-30620v2800?c=cT0zMDYyMC0yODUwMg%3D%3D

73-   :https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-cylinder-slave-30620v2800?c=cT0zMDYyMC0yODUwMg%3D%3D

[Mark Maras]

The adjustable one is the proper one. It's stock on the early Z's. I prefered it because one could adjust the free play in the release bearing. The 5 speed doesn't enter into the equation.

 

[zKars]

Just make sure you have the shift fork with the hole in it before you purchase the slave with the adjustable length rod. It’s ball shaped stopper seats in the spherical recess and the rest of the threaded rod pokes through the hole.

13 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

The adjustable one is the proper one. It's stock on the early Z's. I prefered it because one could adjust the free play in the release bearing. The 5 speed doesn't enter into the equation.

 

 

[dutchzcarguy]

With an old bolt and some nuts you can easely make a adjustable one from a non-adjustable one..

[w3wilkes]

Even though the early cars had the spring and adjustable rod on the clutch slave it may not be the case here.  With @texasz saying he has a five speed this probably is a tranny swap and doesn't have the tab on the bell housing for the spring to attach to. My question is what slave is currently on the clutch?

[texasz]

15 hours ago, w3wilkes said:

Even though the early cars had the spring and adjustable rod on the clutch slave it may not be the case here.  With @texasz saying he has a five speed this probably is a tranny swap and doesn't have the tab on the bell housing for the spring to attach to. My question is what slave is currently on the clutch?

Currently there is an adjustable one on there.

[SteveJ]

That makes it pretty easy, then. Order the OEM slave from the first link I posted.

[texasz]

14 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

That makes it pretty easy, then. Order the OEM slave from the first link I posted.

That is where I was leaning to start with though wanted to make sure I was not missing a good reason to get the other one (other than it being cheaper of course).

[EuroDat]

You can use either, the function is the same, but you will need to adjust to early version occasionly or DON'T use the return spring on the later version. The later version self adjusts internally and the return spring will disable that function. You can use the adjustable push rod without the return spring.

 

[EuroDat]

19 hours ago, w3wilkes said:

With @texasz saying he has a five speed this probably is a tranny swap and doesn't have the tab on the bell housing for the spring to attach to.

It's been a while since I had an early version in my hands, but I'm fairly certain the tab is on the end of the slave cylinder and irrelevant to which bellhousing is used.

[EuroDat]

If you use the later version with the adjustable push rod, adjust the push rod as follows.

1. Assembly slave cilinder with push rod. NO return spring.

2. Adjust the pushrod until there is no free play.

3. With your hand behind the clutch fork push the push rod into the slave cilinder. It should travel approximatly 10 to 15 mm Into the slave cylinder. See diagram distance "S". Note: S is not 35mm. That is slave cylinder stroke or travel.

4. Adjust the push rod until this S distance is reduced 2 to 5mm. It must not bottom out.

5. Lock the push tod locking nut.

Edited October 11, 2021 by EuroDat