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Which Clutch Slave Cylinder To Buy?


texasz

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22 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever. You'll be close.

Thanks Mark!  All of these convoluted instructions and it comes down to "Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever."

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I once had the problem that if i "pumped" the clutch a few times (very fast) , while having a new type clutch slave-cylinder on a early 1971, the clutch became constant detached!  I had to bleed the slave-cylinder to get it working normally again..  so if you want to test this, keep a wrench handy! (12mm i believe..) 

Love to hear if there are more cars that have that "problem" ?  (just pump the clutch three times.. haha)

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On 11/7/2021 at 7:58 PM, Mark Maras said:

Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever. You'll be close.

Finally got a chance to try this.  The odd thing is that even with the adjustment nut turned all the way down, the rod still makes contact with the lever.

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What do you mean by "push rod still makes contact with the lever"?

1. Is the pushrod loose at all or is it under tension?

2. Can you push the pushrod into the slave cylinder?

Have youchanged the clutch recently? Could be an issue with the pressure plate and throw out bearing collar height.

Because the internals of the slave cylinders are different, The none adjustable version has a longer piston and a shorter pushrod. It's only a couple of mm so the adjustabie pushrod should compensate.

Still if the piston is bottoming out you could shorten the pushrod by cutting more thread to give yourself more adjustment or shorten the pushrod.

If the pushrod is under tension you can shorten the rods travel. I would meassure the fork and slave cylinder with the rod in place. Remove the rod (re-mount slave) and measure again. That will give you the over tension. You will need to shorten the rod or cut the thread that much plas 10mm to get an adjustable situation.

Remember when you are finished adjusting the rod. You can push (slowly) the clutch fork into the slave cylinder about 5 - 10mm and the internal spring will push it back out and take out any free play within 1 or 2 seconds. It moves slowly due to the small port in the master cylinder.

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On 11/13/2021 at 9:11 AM, adivin said:

the rod still makes contact with the lever.

With the newer slave cylinder that is what is supposed to happen.  The internal spring pushes the slave piston forward, taking up the play.  Self-adjustment.

Can you push the rod back in to the slave cylinder with everything connected and ready to use?  If you can't then you might have a problem.  

image.png

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This is what I mean by the rod is still making contact.  The nut is screwed all the way down, but there is no free play with the lever as suggested.

Also, the rod will push into the slave cylinder with about 20mm of travel.

Please keep in mind that the engine is not in the car at this time, so that eliminates any issues with clutch, etc.

When I push the rod into the cylinder, it does push back out as described by Zed.  So, is this thing self-adjusting and has the adjustable rod?

 

IMG_0914 (002).jpg

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If you can push it in and let it go. If it iscoming back out and pushing against the fork than it is functioning perfectly.

I mentioned this test earlier.

I am not sure what you mean by this: Please keep in mind that the engine is not in the car at this time, so that eliminates any issues with clutch, etc. 

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18 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Have youchanged the clutch recently? Could be an issue with the pressure plate and throw out bearing collar height.

You asked if I changed the clutch recently and that there may be an issue with the pressure plate.  My car is in a rebuild state and the engine has not been in the car since I changed the slave cylinder.

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