adivin Posted November 9, 2021 Share #25 Posted November 9, 2021 22 hours ago, Mark Maras said: Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever. You'll be close. Thanks Mark! All of these convoluted instructions and it comes down to "Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever." 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted November 9, 2021 Share #26 Posted November 9, 2021 I once had the problem that if i "pumped" the clutch a few times (very fast) , while having a new type clutch slave-cylinder on a early 1971, the clutch became constant detached! I had to bleed the slave-cylinder to get it working normally again.. so if you want to test this, keep a wrench handy! (12mm i believe..) Love to hear if there are more cars that have that "problem" ? (just pump the clutch three times.. haha) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted November 9, 2021 Share #27 Posted November 9, 2021 Btw.. it's a good way to prevent a robber from stealing your car while standing before the traffic lights! Pump the clutch 3 times and get out! He will not get away with it!!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adivin Posted November 13, 2021 Share #28 Posted November 13, 2021 On 11/7/2021 at 7:58 PM, Mark Maras said: Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever. You'll be close. Finally got a chance to try this. The odd thing is that even with the adjustment nut turned all the way down, the rod still makes contact with the lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted November 13, 2021 Share #29 Posted November 13, 2021 Is the spring disconnected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted November 14, 2021 Share #30 Posted November 14, 2021 What do you mean by "push rod still makes contact with the lever"? 1. Is the pushrod loose at all or is it under tension? 2. Can you push the pushrod into the slave cylinder? Have youchanged the clutch recently? Could be an issue with the pressure plate and throw out bearing collar height. Because the internals of the slave cylinders are different, The none adjustable version has a longer piston and a shorter pushrod. It's only a couple of mm so the adjustabie pushrod should compensate. Still if the piston is bottoming out you could shorten the pushrod by cutting more thread to give yourself more adjustment or shorten the pushrod. If the pushrod is under tension you can shorten the rods travel. I would meassure the fork and slave cylinder with the rod in place. Remove the rod (re-mount slave) and measure again. That will give you the over tension. You will need to shorten the rod or cut the thread that much plas 10mm to get an adjustable situation. Remember when you are finished adjusting the rod. You can push (slowly) the clutch fork into the slave cylinder about 5 - 10mm and the internal spring will push it back out and take out any free play within 1 or 2 seconds. It moves slowly due to the small port in the master cylinder. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 14, 2021 Share #31 Posted November 14, 2021 On 11/13/2021 at 9:11 AM, adivin said: the rod still makes contact with the lever. With the newer slave cylinder that is what is supposed to happen. The internal spring pushes the slave piston forward, taking up the play. Self-adjustment. Can you push the rod back in to the slave cylinder with everything connected and ready to use? If you can't then you might have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adivin Posted November 14, 2021 Share #32 Posted November 14, 2021 22 hours ago, Mark Maras said: Is the spring disconnected? Yes, spring disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adivin Posted November 14, 2021 Share #33 Posted November 14, 2021 This is what I mean by the rod is still making contact. The nut is screwed all the way down, but there is no free play with the lever as suggested. Also, the rod will push into the slave cylinder with about 20mm of travel. Please keep in mind that the engine is not in the car at this time, so that eliminates any issues with clutch, etc. When I push the rod into the cylinder, it does push back out as described by Zed. So, is this thing self-adjusting and has the adjustable rod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted November 14, 2021 Share #34 Posted November 14, 2021 If you can push it in and let it go. If it iscoming back out and pushing against the fork than it is functioning perfectly. I mentioned this test earlier. I am not sure what you mean by this: Please keep in mind that the engine is not in the car at this time, so that eliminates any issues with clutch, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adivin Posted November 15, 2021 Share #35 Posted November 15, 2021 18 hours ago, EuroDat said: Have youchanged the clutch recently? Could be an issue with the pressure plate and throw out bearing collar height. You asked if I changed the clutch recently and that there may be an issue with the pressure plate. My car is in a rebuild state and the engine has not been in the car since I changed the slave cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now