So the interior is mostly different, except with the possibility of the dash?

I assume everything under the hood will be the same, what about suspension, brakes and fuel lines/tank.

Any input would be great, I am having trouble finding a 2seater parts car but there is a sea fo 2+2's

Thanks

From the sounds of it even the motor alone would be worth it, And if the front panels are any good, they are worth a pretty good price too. That said, I have sold doors off at a good price, advertise on OZdat and its amazing what you can sell.

Im just a bit worried about the condition of the motor and the quality and completeness of the EFI conversion from a 280zx, but I guess if it runs even after a roll start its a decent sign.

I assume unless there is structural damage to the block or head then any problems can be fixed during a teardown and rebuild. Im no mechanic, im just picking everything up as I go along with these cars.

Getting a bit off topic, I hope no one minds

You did all the basic on the spot checks, like looking for bubbles in the radiator under acceleration, and checked for creamy oil after running? Other than that there is not much you can do except for haggle.

The injection System and the engine all can be fixed, good that you saw it run from the clutch start, as that is a good sign.

The part number on the computer will date the injection system, and allow you to chase any parts you may need. The forging mark on the block just above the sump attach point passenger side down below where the distibutor is. You must have seen the casting mark for the head on the drivers side of it. Take some digital pictures if you can get a camera, stick them on your hard drive for when you do the instal in the 2 seater. Please post a pick of the engine bay if you can.

Steve :classic:

acceleration? running?

We roll started the car in the drive way just to prove that it did in fact run due to the dead battery. after idling it for around aminute we had to shut it off before all the oil leaked from the suspect oil pressure sender.

Next time I go I will check the oil, and top it up before I drive it. As for the radiator bubbles, Im not sure what you mean.

Originally posted by sjcurtis

The injection System and the engine all can be fixed, good that you saw it run from the clutch start, as that is a good sign.

The part number on the computer will date the injection system, and allow you to chase any parts you may need. The forging mark on the block just above the sump attach point passenger side down below where the distibutor is. You must have seen the casting mark for the head on the drivers side of it. Take some digital pictures if you can get a camera, stick them on your hard drive for when you do the instal in the 2 seater. Please post a pick of the engine bay if you can.

Steve :classic:

I will take some photos for sure, I am already fairly committed to buying it and I have negotiated a good price. For some reason I cant find the block casting, the strange thing is that I have found it on carb'ed cars and I remember finding it on a 280zx, but I dont know how as the inlet manifold completey covers line of site to the exhaust ports/extractors.

As a side note, how did all you guys gain experience with cars and mechanics. Was it by throwing yourself in the deep end like I am or did you have some sort of education/teaching. I think I am the only guy in the world that doesnt have uncle john the mechanic

Originally posted by Rob

Is the bum of a 2+2 wider than a coupe?

They are both coupes.

and i dont know, but probably not.

FWIW The back light panel of the 260 2+2 is wider than the 2 seater. Roughly measures up at 132.5cm for 240 2 seater, to 135.5 for 260Z 2 seater, not much, but enough to make trying to fit the light surrounds above the skills of you or me. Maybe the 260 2 Seater is wider than the 240, Don't have the car to measure. Measurements were taken from the edge of the car body and across to the other side.

In reference to the radiator bubbles, if the head or gasket is blown, you can get pressure from the compression of the motor forcing exhaust gasses back out through the radiator, so under acceleration, with the cap off the radiator, you get bubbles coming through, which shouldn't be there in a healthy motor.

Im hopeful the 240 and 260z are different, as i know it is a bit of work fitting 240 lights to the 260?

I can hope that nissan didnt go to the trouble of makin slightly different near identical parts :stupid:

Its not a work of art:

but its a good base, drives quite nicely too:

Looks pretty good (referring to the lack of rust around the flat part of the guards) and if it runs well even better. So got any pics of the whole car? I take it its at your house now? Terrible colour.