I just installed a new Kameari High Performance Oil Pump to my 280z. I have an L28 with triple weber carbs. I installed it because I had no oil pressure at idle. I also threw in Rotella T6 5w-40 oil into the car as a ton of people recommended to use Rotella to me. Before I would use penzoil 10w-30 but the car would burn about a qt every 2k miles or so. Needless to say after doing this, the car idles amazing now and is insanely smooth now through the rpm range. Before my car drove like the webers needed a tune. It feels like my car might've just gained some power. Before the new oil pump my car would idle around 800 rpm, but after installing the oil pump the car now idles at 1200 (can't adjust weber idle screws to lower it too as its already the lowest it can go). Also I noticed some kind of sound coming from the engine that I can only hear above 3k rpm and only when I accelerate. I don't hear the sound when coasting. The sound kinda sounds like maybe a tapping noise or maybe a rotating noise, its hard to explain. Any ideas?

Looks like you put two separate variables in the loop at one time. Backtrack, check your work and check every thing you touched. Have you checked the timing?

4 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Looks like you put two separate variables in the loop at one time. Backtrack, check your work and check every thing you touched. Have you checked the timing?

I only touched the oil pump and did an oil change lol. I was going to check timing tomorrow as I didn't have time today, i figured I might've somehow advanced the timing when I installed the oil pump and possibly I might be hearing ping? I run 91 octane in the car already.

29 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Looks like you put two separate variables in the loop at one time. Backtrack, check your work and check every thing you touched. Have you checked the timing?

I just went to go adjust timing by ear and there wasn't a difference to my ears no matter how much I would retard or advance. the sound im hearing from the engine sounds like fast crickets, that's the best way I can explain the sound. I can also confirm the car feels a lot faster than before.

fast crickets are the secret to more HP.  Keep that a secret you are not supposed to tell people about the fast crickets.

12 minutes ago, AZDatsun said:

fast crickets are the secret to more HP.  Keep that a secret you are not supposed to tell people about the fast crickets.

I definitely don't want the fast crickets. I can't afford another motor lol.

You might just be hearing the contacting of the new pump parts.  To get higher pressure they might have changed the shape of the pumping components and also used a higher pressure relief valve.

But, there should be no effect on performance.

I'm not sure that MSA really proofread what they wrote.  How does a pump maintain "static" pressure?  Anyway, they imply that the pump pushes high volume at low PRM.  That would require a redesign of the "gerotor".

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/17-8032

"Kameari High Performance Oil Pump is the best pump available. It is designed to maintain a static pressure of 6kg/cm2 (85.3 PSI), "

 

5 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

You might just be hearing the contacting of the new pump parts.  To get higher pressure they might have changed the shape of the pumping components and also used a higher pressure relief valve.

But, there should be no effect on performance.

I'm not sure that MSA really proofread what they wrote.  How does a pump maintain "static" pressure?  Anyway, they imply that the pump pushes high volume at low PRM.  That would require a redesign of the "gerotor".

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/17-8032

"Kameari High Performance Oil Pump is the best pump available. It is designed to maintain a static pressure of 6kg/cm2 (85.3 PSI), "

 

Is that normal? To my ears an oil pump should not make noise like that at all even if it's a performance pump, it's really loud, can hear it even over my loud exhaust from inside the cabin. I forgot to mention I added something called "Engine Restore" which is suppose to help increase compression so maybe that's stuff worked and the use of thicker oil helped too lol. Or maybe my car is happier that its finally getting oil pressure?

 

Is it possible for me to set off timing installing a new oil pump? I didn't mess with the dizzy, I just took off the oil pump and spindle that came out and installed the new one best I could with the spindle.

 

Not sure what that meant either, I was just told to get this one or a turbo oil pump to fix my low oil pressure issue which so far its done that perfectly.

why not set the motor to TDC and verify the distributor shaft position? 
 

I don’t see how the idle would change after a oil pump change….

 

have you taken the valve cover off? Just to take a peep at the valve train?

Edited October 15, 20213 yr by heyitsrama

the spindle that came out with the oil pump sets the timing on the distributor. I expect your ignition timing is advanced. there are many threads on here about timing the oil pump and distributor spindle. 

5 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

why not set the motor to TDC and verify the distributor shaft position? 
 

I don’t see how the idle would change after a oil pump change….

 

have you taken the valve cover off? Just to take a peep at the valve train?

I was trying to avoid doing this because I don't see how replacing an oil pump can cause timing to go off. I haven't taken that off yet. My car ran really rich before replacing the oil pump so later today I'll check my spark plugs and see if they indicate if I'm running lean now or still running rich. I was gonna readjust valves next week but doubt that's the issue. If anything I'll probably throw car into tdc on Tuesday when I have time and check everything

5 hours ago, jonbill said:

the spindle that came out with the oil pump sets the timing on the distributor. I expect your ignition timing is advanced. there are many threads on here about timing the oil pump and distributor spindle. 

Yeah I know, but the only way timing would be set off is if I somehow moved the spindle and caused the distributor to turn too with it, but to my knowledge, isn't it really hard to rotate the spindle from the bottom to cause the distributor to rotate too? I've timed both before when I rebuilt my motor

I’d probably go reverse order on your pump install and see what you have. Those crickets are coming from somewhere. Could it be possible the plastic gear not meshing properly creating the noise?