So it only makes noise when the drivetrain is turning? Not when you rev it up.

If it were me, I would support the rear on jack stands and chock the front wheels securely,  then spin the drivetrain up and see if I could locate the noise.

A helper to drive would be good or a friend with a dyno might be good too.

Update: Replaced water pump, no more leaking, also went ahead and installed the old oil pump back onto the car to test and noise was still present after installing the old pump so the oil pump is out of the question now and so is the water pump.

  On 11/9/2021 at 12:46 PM, Patcon said:

So it only makes noise when the drivetrain is turning? Not when you rev it up.

If it were me, I would support the rear on jack stands and chock the front wheels securely,  then spin the drivetrain up and see if I could locate the noise.

A helper to drive would be good or a friend with a dyno might be good too.

So I went ahead and lifted the car, can't get the noise to come when the car is in the air, so more than likely the car needs to be under some kinda load or the front wheels possibly? I installed big brake kit in the front and new wheel bearings about 5 months ago, didn't have any issues so doubt that's the problem. I will most likely throw a gopro into the engine bay my next drive see if that helps at all.

  On 11/9/2021 at 8:11 AM, jonbill said:

your distributor spindle looks right now 👍🏻

the leftmost (or most anti clockwise) marker on the pulley will be 0 or TDC.  the marks to its right are in 5 degree increments. 

the 0 marker should be aligned with the pointer on the timing cover at TDC. is it? 

depending how your timing gun works, 0 may be the correct marker to line it up with. 

Yeah, I double checked today and the position with the spindle is 100% aligned with my oil pump. Yes so if thats the case my timing is currently at about 15 degrees. Which in no way should cause pinging, I run 91 octane, even tried octane booster to make sure.

  On 11/5/2021 at 12:55 PM, Ownallday said:

I looked at my harmonic balancer, the only thing is im running this one from MSA.

You might check the tightness of the damper on the crankshaft snout.  People often use the wrong combination of washer and bolt and end up torquing the bolt in to the nose of the crankshaft without actually clamping the damper down.  Bolt too long, in effect.

The key will keep the damper from spinning but it can still wobble around and cause damage.  I think that @Diseazd might have a picture, if my memory is right.

And, if you have AC, the AC belt idler pulley bearing is known for going bad and making noise.

Edited November 9, 20213 yr by Zed Head

Great point @Zed Head. If he didn’t go back with the stock damper bolt, he may be having the same problem I had using the performance damper bolt from Motorsports. Like you said, the bolt and washer combo was too long, bottomed out in the snout and made a weird noise under load because it didn’t snug everything up. Pulled my hair out trying to find the noise. Make sure you use a washer and bolt that is short enough not to bottom out. You want the bolt and washer to snug everything up. Very, very important. I started a thread on the subject, but I think it was @Jeff G 78 that had the pic.

Edited November 10, 20213 yr by Diseazd

  On 11/9/2021 at 11:25 PM, Zed Head said:

You might check the tightness of the damper on the crankshaft snout.  People often use the wrong combination of washer and bolt and end up torquing the bolt in to the nose of the crankshaft without actually clamping the damper down.  Bolt too long, in effect.

The key will keep the damper from spinning but it can still wobble around and cause damage.  I think that @Diseazd might have a picture, if my memory is right.

And, if you have AC, the AC belt idler pulley bearing is known for going bad and making noise.

Thanks for the input. I will check it tomorrow or Thursday if I get the chance. So should I just retorque the bolt? MSA has a recommendation to using a special bolt and washer from them for the balancer I have. I don't have air condition installed atm but I do have an AC kit I want to install eventually.

  On 11/10/2021 at 12:33 AM, Diseazd said:

Great point @Zed Head. If he didn’t go back with the stock damper bolt, he may be having the same problem I had using the performance damper bolt from Motorsports. Like you said, the bolt and washer combo was too long, bottomed out in the snout and made a weird noise under load because it didn’t snug everything up. Pulled my hair out trying to find the noise. Make sure you use a washer and bolt that is short enough not to bottom out. You want the bolt and washer to snug everything up. Very, very important. I started a thread on the subject, but I think it was @Jeff G 78 that had the pic.

Did you have the same combination I currently have? Performance Harmonic balancer from MSA and their special bolt and washer kit? If so what's the best solution? At this point I am pulling my hair out. Is it possible to just switch back to the stock bolt and washer? I don't want to buy another balancer unless there are any with an AC pulley attachment.

https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=damper&author=Diseazd&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy

  On 11/10/2021 at 1:04 AM, Ownallday said:

Thanks for the input. I will check it tomorrow or Thursday if I get the chance. So should I just retorque the bolt? MSA has a recommendation to using a special bolt and washer from them for the balancer I have. I don't have air condition installed atm but I do have an AC kit I want to install eventually.

Did you have the same combination I currently have? Performance Harmonic balancer from MSA and their special bolt and washer kit? If so what's the best solution? At this point I am pulling my hair out. Is it possible to just switch back to the stock bolt and washer? I don't want to buy another balancer unless there are any with an AC pulley attachment.

If I recall, the washer had a step down. If I installed it one way, it dropped into the opening of the damper and caused the bolt to bottom out in the snout......BAD!  If installed on the flip side, it wouldn’t drop in and the bolt wouldn’t bottom out. I just ditched the expensive “so called” Nismo bolt combo and went back to the stock damper bolt and washer and the noise disappeared. I pulled my hair out too. You can thank @Zed Headfor this if that was your problem.....he saved your arse a ton of hair pulling. I have a thread called “Strange noise coming from my L28” or something to that effect. If someone knows how to find it, it explains the whole process. I don’t know how to find my old threads. Every time I learn how to use this site, @Mikechanges it LOL. Good Luck! Sorry Mike.....still waiting for that trip to Holland.

PS.  I added pictures of that expensive bolt and washer that caused the problem.

Edited November 10, 20213 yr by Diseazd

These two were at the very end of the search I posted.  Searching is definitely more difficult than it used to be.  Hard to find the right place then get it to do what you want it to do.  I used the CZCC function this time but usually I just use Google and "site:classiczcars.com"

 

 

Edited November 10, 20213 yr by Zed Head

Thanks @Zed Head......I couldn’t figure out how to find those. Pretty much sounds like his problem.

Edited November 11, 20213 yr by Diseazd

@OwnalldayDid you mention in an earlier thread whether or not your using the stock bolt or the one MSA recommended? Which bolt is currently attaching the balancer? 

  On 11/10/2021 at 11:46 PM, Diseazd said:

If I recall, the washer had a step down. If I installed it one way, it dropped into the opening of the damper and caused the bolt to bottom out in the snout......BAD!  If installed on the flip side, it wouldn’t drop in and the bolt wouldn’t bottom out. I just ditched the expensive “so called” Nismo bolt combo and went back to the stock damper bolt and washer and the noise disappeared. I pulled my hair out too. You can thank @Zed Headfor this if that was your problem.....he saved your arse a ton of hair pulling. I have a thread called “Strange noise coming from my L28” or something to that effect. If someone knows how to find it, it explains the whole process. I don’t know how to find my old threads. Every time I learn how to use this site, @Mikechanges it LOL. Good Luck! Sorry Mike.....still waiting for that trip to Holland.

PS.  I added pictures of that expensive bolt and washer that caused the problem.

Thanks for the response. I will update later tonight the orientation of the washer. I don't believe it's install "the wrong way" though but I will update later.

  On 11/10/2021 at 11:52 PM, Zed Head said:

These two were at the very end of the search I posted.  Searching is definitely more difficult than it used to be.  Hard to find the right place then get it to do what you want it to do.  I used the CZCC function this time but usually I just use Google and "site:classiczcars.com"

 

 

Thanks, I tried to find them but didn't understand how to search like you stated. I will update later tonight on the washer situation

  On 11/11/2021 at 1:10 AM, Yarb said:

@OwnalldayDid you mention in an earlier thread whether or not your using the stock bolt or the one MSA recommended? Which bolt is currently attaching the balancer? 

I am using the MSA recommend bolt and washer kit so the washer that they recommend for the performance harmonic balancer that they sell

  On 11/11/2021 at 1:25 AM, Ownallday said:

I am using the MSA recommend bolt and washer kit so the washer that they recommend for the performance harmonic balancer that they sell

If you read Diseazd's thread you'll see that he was too.  That was the point - the MSA recommendation did not work correctly.