need some advice. Apparently i have all the ignition stuff on and was trying to fire up the car. It turns over great it just wont ignite and crank.

No idea what the issue is or even could be. Everything is rebuilt and new including new Ztherapy carbs, lines etc. Gas is being pushed from the mechanic fuel pump and all the plugs are sparking good.

Could some wires not 100% right at the ignition or ballast cause this? What about bad timing? Any thoughts are welcome

 

Overhead shot of the magnet placement

thanks. magnet is right... tried to start it... it wouldnt...sigh

 

37 minutes ago, Wally said:

thanks. magnet is right... tried to start it... it wouldnt...sigh

You need to give more detail on how you tried and what, exactly, happened.  Might be you turned the key, heard a click, and quit.

1 hour ago, Wally said:

thanks. magnet is right... tried to start it... it wouldnt...sigh

 

This sounds like a great time to shoot some video when trying to start so we can see what is and is not happening.

ok here is a short video of me trying to start. I removed plugs, turned breaker bar until got lobes right and degrees around 7 or 8 degrees. this put rotor on distributor in right spot. i check magnets on pertronix also. Put plugs back in and double check plug cable locations. sprayed fluid in carbs and tried to crank..video then picks up there

Engine spins way faster than it should.  Like there's no compression.  Have you ever measured cylinder pressure?  

I posted this picture of your cam lobe earlier.  It looks like wear on the base circle which should not happen.  Like there's no valve lash.  Who last adjusted valve lash on the engine?  Looks and sounds like the valves are all hanging open.

this could be the issue. i had this done professionally by a local engine shop. The guy did call me several times over the lashes and trying to make sure they were correct. is this something i can visually check by taking the valve cover off or should i measure them with some feeler gauge?

would you suggest getting a new stock cam to replace one i have

6 minutes ago, Wally said:

this could be the issue. i had this done professionally by a local engine shop. The guy did call me several times over the lashes and trying to make sure they were correct. is this something i can visually check by taking the valve cover off or should i measure them with some feeler gauge?

You measure valve lash with a feeler gauge. While there has been plenty of debate online about doing it hot or cold, you're definitely doing it cold. I hope your mechanic used properly sized lash pads. Use 0.008 for intake valves and 0.010 for exhaust valves.

2 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

You measure valve lash with a feeler gauge. While there has been plenty of debate online about doing it hot or cold, you're definitely doing it cold. I hope your mechanic used properly sized lash pads. Use 0.008 for intake valves and 0.010 for exhaust valves.

thanks. I remember asking him and i think he used those sizes. i do 100% recall him saying he used different sizes for intake vs exhaust, although i never verified that. I have a feeler gauge i assume i would manually move the cam to where the "point" is fully down on each lash and measure? Is there a standard ballpark range it should be within 

21 minutes ago, Wally said:

I have a feeler gauge i assume i would manually move the cam to where the "point" is fully down on each lash and measure?

That is the opposite of how it's done.  

First or second thing I would do is remove the valve cover, take a.006" or thinner feeler, find a lobe that has the point pointing up, and see if you can slip the gauge between the round part of the cam shaft (no lobe or ramp) and the rocker arm.  Do that on all of the lobes that are one the base circle.  Won't be a surprise if you can't get the gauge in.

Or, get a cylinder pressure gauge ( I think that you can borrow them from a local auto store) and measure cylinder pressure.  It's easy to do.  If you get low numbers, then you can get under the valve cover.

If lash is correct it might be that you have bent valves. There is an odd noise about every rotation in your video.  Doesn't sound good.

Edited November 11, 20213 yr by Zed Head
finished a sentence

Lash pads are not the same as setting the valve lash. I can't speak to the technique to measure for the proper size lash pad, but maybe someone who does will chime in.

This is the wrench set I like to use for adjusting the valve lash. They are not as thick as your typical wrenches, so it makes it easier to put both wrenches on the nuts for the valve adjustment.

https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/wp-w003300we/wrenches-sets/workpro/w003300/