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Car will not start


Wally

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Pretty sure that one of these magnets (red) needs to be in the middle of the sensor (purple).  There are other tricks a person can do with wires and voltage and turning the shaft but I think it would be a bit much for this thread.

Turn the distributor body until one of those magnets is centered and you will be about as close as you can get for an initial start. 

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Edited by Zed Head
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ok here is a short video of me trying to start. I removed plugs, turned breaker bar until got lobes right and degrees around 7 or 8 degrees. this put rotor on distributor in right spot. i check magnets on pertronix also. Put plugs back in and double check plug cable locations. sprayed fluid in carbs and tried to crank..video then picks up there

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Engine spins way faster than it should.  Like there's no compression.  Have you ever measured cylinder pressure?  

I posted this picture of your cam lobe earlier.  It looks like wear on the base circle which should not happen.  Like there's no valve lash.  Who last adjusted valve lash on the engine?  Looks and sounds like the valves are all hanging open.

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this could be the issue. i had this done professionally by a local engine shop. The guy did call me several times over the lashes and trying to make sure they were correct. is this something i can visually check by taking the valve cover off or should i measure them with some feeler gauge?

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  On 11/11/2021 at 4:57 PM, Wally said:

this could be the issue. i had this done professionally by a local engine shop. The guy did call me several times over the lashes and trying to make sure they were correct. is this something i can visually check by taking the valve cover off or should i measure them with some feeler gauge?

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You measure valve lash with a feeler gauge. While there has been plenty of debate online about doing it hot or cold, you're definitely doing it cold. I hope your mechanic used properly sized lash pads. Use 0.008 for intake valves and 0.010 for exhaust valves.

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  On 11/11/2021 at 5:04 PM, SteveJ said:

You measure valve lash with a feeler gauge. While there has been plenty of debate online about doing it hot or cold, you're definitely doing it cold. I hope your mechanic used properly sized lash pads. Use 0.008 for intake valves and 0.010 for exhaust valves.

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thanks. I remember asking him and i think he used those sizes. i do 100% recall him saying he used different sizes for intake vs exhaust, although i never verified that. I have a feeler gauge i assume i would manually move the cam to where the "point" is fully down on each lash and measure? Is there a standard ballpark range it should be within 

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  On 11/11/2021 at 5:08 PM, Wally said:

I have a feeler gauge i assume i would manually move the cam to where the "point" is fully down on each lash and measure?

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That is the opposite of how it's done.  

First or second thing I would do is remove the valve cover, take a.006" or thinner feeler, find a lobe that has the point pointing up, and see if you can slip the gauge between the round part of the cam shaft (no lobe or ramp) and the rocker arm.  Do that on all of the lobes that are one the base circle.  Won't be a surprise if you can't get the gauge in.

Or, get a cylinder pressure gauge ( I think that you can borrow them from a local auto store) and measure cylinder pressure.  It's easy to do.  If you get low numbers, then you can get under the valve cover.

If lash is correct it might be that you have bent valves. There is an odd noise about every rotation in your video.  Doesn't sound good.

Edited by Zed Head
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