1. Did you confirm that it is on the compression stroke?
2. Did you reorient the oil pump & distributor, or was it oriented like that when you got the bunny ears on the camshaft on cylinder 1?

1. i have not confirmed its on compression stroke. Would i do so by putting all plugs back in except #1 and putting in rubber plug

and seeing if it shoots out when i turn over engine?

2. i left the oil pump and distributor in when i manually turned the damper bolt

The "bunny ears" picture confirms that you are on the compression stroke.  The rotor seems to be pointing close to the correct direction.  But the distributor body is rotated too far counterclockwise, (compared to site's picture at the top of the page) which would cause the ignition timing to be retarded.  

Can you get a picture of the timing mark on the damper pulley?  It should be at zero or about 10.  Then you need to rotate the distributor to get the Pertronix trigger at the right point.  The Pertronix guys know how to do that.

But, just because you're on the compression stroke doesn't mean you have compression.  I can't remember all of the details of what's been done to your engine but the cam lobes look a bit used.  

Anyway, as far as parts they look pretty close except for your ignition timing.  Get your igntion timing adjusted and use some starting fluid and you should get it to start for a few seconds.

the distributor body was soundly bolted down. i can twist it a little and get it like the image above. Attached is new image with cap secured. 

for "timing mark" 

I assume i need to take out radiator, fan and pulleys off? do i need timing cover off too?

I found this picture on the Google.  (It's from zcar.com but it doesn't exist in the original post, so I won't link it).

The picture on the left is of the bottom pulley on the front of your engine.  You should be able to see if from the passenger side of the car.  Shine a bright light down there and look.  Those are your ignition timing marks.

The picture on the right is of the distributor base.  Nissan put degree marks right on the base of the distributor.  Yours will probably be off because you have Pertronix now but they should be close.  See if yours is between the A and the center mark.

p.s.  you don't have to remove anything or turn any bolts except for the screw that locks the distributor body down.

Edited November 8, 20213 yr by Zed Head

that image is awesome. THANKS! The circled triangle tip on left was at 0. i was able to turn slightly

now its at about 7-8 degrees. is that right? Lobes still look like bunny ears and rotor still seems fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 8, 20213 yr by Wally
i put wrong info

Maybe this will help. This is the timing mark on the 240Z with the distributor as reference.

Based on SteveJ's latest image i am confused again. Here is where mine is currently located. Its on the other side of the engine. There is a little triangle metal tab there under the alternator 

bracket. I circled it. Soo..... thats the wrong spot? I know its hard to see but the tip of that metal piece is at 7-8 degrees currently

Edited November 8, 20213 yr by Wally

Sorry, I didn't mean to confuse. This thread may help some.

 

no worries. thanks for that link. I confirmed its sitting right at about 7 degree with lobes up and rotor in correct spot. 

Am i good to  put plugs in, valve cover on and try and start it now

22 minutes ago, Wally said:

. Soo..... thats the wrong spot?

Nissan used both sides on the early cars.  I think it had to do with air conditioning.

23 minutes ago, Wally said:

the tip of that metal piece is at 7-8 degrees currently

That's about where you want to be.  Now you just need to make sure that the Pertronix trigger is just about to trigger.  If you had points or a 280Z system it would be pretty simple but Pertronix is a bit different, with the magnet.

 

4 minutes ago, Wally said:

Am i good to  put plugs in, valve cover on and try and start it now

Check the trigger on the Pertronix first.  I don't know how to do it, but it's important.  I did some Google but the instructions are all for people who had a running engine before they swapped points.  Can't find any "starting from scratch" instructions.

It's probably as simple as lining up some marks on the sensor and magnet but I've never had one so don't know.  If you do that you and confirm that the rotor is pointed at #1 plug wire then you'll have everything pointing where it should be pointing and it should start. Assuming...