New member needing some opinions

[siteunseen]

I used to use a Sharpie and write the contents on the Ziploc baggie. That wears off fairly easy so write the contents on a small piece of paper and drop it inside the bag. Made my rebuild easier to put back together when the time came.

Nice looking early '72. Glad you're here on the best forum.

Cliff 

[Dadson]

Excellent advice on bagging and tagging. I already bought a bunch of ziplocks and index cards. Will follow your suggestion on string tags for wiring and pick up more totes. I hope to start the disassembly this weekend. Lift question: I’m looking for a used lift and found a guy that retired his auto mechanic shop and now just does inspections. He has a 6k lb scissor lift that he will sell me for $400. Seems there are pros and cons to all lifts whether 4post, 2 post, scissor etc. would getting that scissor lift allow me to do most work I need to do? I hear the aren’t good for transmission and exhaust, but if they are good for suspension and most other stuff, $400 seems like a bargain.


‘72 240z Kilimanjaro white vin 473XX

[Patcon]

When I unplug harnesses,  I use painters tape. Forst connection gets tagged "A" on both side then so on. Double letters after 26

Have you lined up a paint shop yet?

If not, I wouldn't start disassembly just yet

[Dadson]

Great point on harness identification. No paint lined up yet. I’m going to talk to one hopefully tomorrow. I have a friend that is an insurance adjuster that I want to get some referrals from. Maybe I should slow down a little to line that up. Thanks!


‘72 240z Kilimanjaro white vin 473XX

[Patcon]

I  have found that most shops dont want to paint classic cars. Almost all of them.

The main stream shops that will, end up regretting it in the end.

Shops that do classic cars many times specialize in mustangs or mopar or whatever. That leaves our Japanese tin out on the cold. Also these cars are thin and not as forgiving as beating on a 50s or 60s American car.

An adjuster might be able to provide good leads. You could also go talk to some auto body supply shops ( finishmaster, S-W auto, etc) If you can pull the store manager aside and get a discreet recommendation preferably without witnesses ( you will get better honesty this way without the risk of offending customers) that would be my preferred method.

I have also found that the paint job can take 2, 3 or 4x's longer than originally quoted. Collectively known as " paint jail"...

[Dadson]

Good to know. I definitely don’t want to be in paint jail. I will work on lining that out first and maybe they can get me on the schedule. Any opinion on the scissor lift? I probably need to make a decision tomorrow before he offers it to someone else.


‘72 240z Kilimanjaro white vin 473XX

[Patcon]

I dont really know about the scissor lift

@SteveJ

Would be a better person to ask

[Seppi72]

As for the lift, are you talking about a QuickJack?  I have a BL-5000SLX that I bought new through Home Despot (yeah, Despot) for about $1,000 almost two years ago.  I see they're running $1,400 now.  Works fine for my Ford Flex and girlfriend's Nissan Murano.  If that's being offered at $400, take it.

Haven't used mine on a Z yet but, when I do, the lifting will be done along the frame rails running down the entire car.  I had Bad Dog frame rail "boosters" welded in during the rust repair prior to painting as I knew I'd be running higher torque than what the original L24 put out.  Plus, I just love a stiff car on a twisty road.

Regardless of my rambling on, my point is: DO NOT LIFT YOUR CAR THE FIRST TIME USING THE ORIGINAL JACKING POINTS.  Those are likely to be very weak if there's even a hint of rust in the old girl.

Get some 6-foot lengths of 2x4 and cut them to the length of that bodywork between each side's wheel wells.  Then, put some latex paint along the bottom edge seam of the car and carefully press the 4-inch side of each board into that seam to transfer the paint.  Then, when it's dry, router a groove along that paint line deep enough to accommodate the seam and then use those boards each time you want to raise the car using that lift.  You could could even glue some old carpeting along the flat to protect and cushion the bodywork.

[SteveJ]

10 hours ago, Dadson said:

Good to know. I definitely don’t want to be in paint jail. I will work on lining that out first and maybe they can get me on the schedule. Any opinion on the scissor lift? I probably need to make a decision tomorrow before he offers it to someone else.


‘72 240z Kilimanjaro white vin 473XX

Advantages of a scissor lift:

1. Very sturdy. It's great for wheel/hub work including brake jobs.
2. Can lift higher than a QJ.  (I also have a QJ 5000)
3. Less guessing about jackpoints than a 2-post. I used 2-post lifts often when I was in the Air Force. The thing I miss most about the military is the Auto Hobby Shop.

Disadvantages of a scissor lift:

1. Sits high. I have the car on 2x12s over the lift so the exhaust doesn't hit.
2. Most are difficult to do centerline/transmission work. I did replace the driveshaft with the car on the scissor lift, but draining/refilling the transmission was a pain since I had to lie on one of the bottom crossmembers.
3. The crossmembers can get in the way of simple things like placing your catch pan under the car for an oil change.

Just one thing, if the scissor lift does not have locking points as you lift, you do NOT want it. A safe lift should have locks that require the operator to disengage prior to lowering.

Edited November 19, 2021 by SteveJ

[jonbill]

There's a couple of kinds of scissor lifts - mine does give good access to everything. 

Edited November 19, 2021 by jonbill

[Seppi72]

Yeah, jonbill, yours looks like my QuickJack except that your two sides are linked whereas a QuickJack is two independently moveable sides so there's nothing on the ground between the two sides and i can move around freely.  But yours lifts a lot higher.  My QuickJack will only go 18 inches or so unless I use extra cribbing - and I do sometimes.

[Namerow]

5 hours ago, jonbill said:

mine does give good access to everything

Who makes it?  Or, who was the supplier that you bought it from?