I had an issue with a stuck rear brake drum, with the drum stuck to the hub, and not to the shoes.  I tried hammering, PB Blaster, heat gun - all to no avail.  I tried to borrow a puller that Autozone seemed to have, but couldn't locate one.  I ended up buying what I think is the same tool from Amazon (Astro 78830).  This did the trick.

I wrapped a ratchet strap around the tool jaws to make sure they would not slide off.  I couldn't wrap it around the drum, as is recommended, because the fins caused the strap to slide off.  It took a fair amount of impact-wrenching before the drum popped off with a loud snap.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

I’ve struggled with enough of these nasty corroded on drums to take the plunge with this puller. Thanks for the part number.

Just finished another session of MAP gas heat and 2lb sledge blows that always ends up with drum damage to some extent. 

While I’m here, I’ll also share a related issue we all need to check each time we get one of these nasty super-stuck drums off. 

On the second last 71 I worked on, someone had gotten the drums off for me, (thank you thank you thank you) but for the life of me I could not get them to go back on and sit flush. Once I studied them a bit, it was obvious. The first 1/8 inch of the inner circle of the edge of the aluminum drum had actually come off (more like fallen apart) and was stuck to the face of the stub axle around the raised center section!  Because that material was un-even, the drum only when back on flush if you got the clocking right so the bits (on the hub) and gaps (on the drum) lined up again!

I had to chip that hard aluminum oxide residue off of stub axle face all around the hub center with a chisel. 

So if your struggling with rear wheel vibration, maybe your drums are sitting tight to the stub axles.

Oh! And another hint, this one gleaned from the 510 world. Their drums have two or four M8x1.25 threaded holes in the drum face between the studs. You just thread in some bolts and these press on the stub axle face and pop the drum right off! 

Technically you could drill and carefully tap some holes in a stuck Z drum (with a bottoming tap) and use the bolt trick, but maybe do this to new drums before you put them on to prevent any and all future grief.

Here is a picture of a new aftermarket 510 brake drum from Rock Auto. Note the extra pair of holes.

Just ordered it from Amazon.ca.   Pricey at $205 CAD but worth it. No more chipped fins…..

12 minutes ago, zKars said:

Just ordered it from Amazon.ca.   Pricey at $205 CAD but worth it. No more chipped fins…..

ouch.  Amazon had a 'used' one for $108, and it looks brand new.  In fact I suspect that somebody used Amazon as a 'tool loaner' service by buying the tool, using it, and returning it.  I'm not one of those people, and I'm sure I'll have future use of the tool.

16 hours ago, Roberts280Z said:

issue with a stuck rear brake drum

Yeah.. Maintenance on the rear brakes is critical, i take them apart every few years, whatever the mileage.. also look for the edge in the drum, if there is one just grind it out.. otherwise yours will never come of again.. (undamaged.)  If you drive more you should take it apart every 10k miles.

Anti-seize compound on the studs and axle flange will eliminate most of those stuck problems.

That would have been good advice for the previous owner.  But, it so happens I bought this Z in 1976.  The only previous problems in this area were with the shoes grabbing the drum, requiring the adjustors to be backed off.  But I will apply the anti-seize for the next guy.