Hello

Are rebuild kits still available for rebuilding OEM Nikki fuel pump…or are any vendors out there doing this?

I searched the old threads but they are all pretty dated. Thought I would try to get some fresh input.
 

Thanks

Jim

16 hours ago, VaCat33 said:

Hello

Are rebuild kits still available for rebuilding OEM Nikki fuel pump…or are any vendors out there doing this?

I searched the old threads but they are all pretty dated. Thought I would try to get some fresh input.
 

Thanks

Jim

 

AZ

thanks. I did see this article. I am reluctant to use 50 year old rubber parts, even if from NOS unit. I was really hoping somebody out there was making a current rebuild kit. If not, I might have to consider your option.

Jim

Hello Again,

I thought I would let everybody know That JDM parts has a rebuild kit for the Nikki 271070 fuel pump. At $125 it is not cheap. I confirmed with the company that the kit will work on all Nikki 271070 fuel pumps, regardless of the car model (as indicated in the article in the post above the 271070 pump was used in several different Datsun models.)

Here is a link to the rebuild kit.

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/nikki-fuel-pump-rebuilt-kit-for-prince-ha30-fairlady-s30-skyline-gc10-with-l20-l24-engine?variant=39616128811117

Happy Holidays 

Jim

Looks like the value of the old Nikki core I put in a box years ago just went up.

 

2 hours ago, VaCat33 said:

Hello Again,

I thought I would let everybody know That JDM parts has a rebuild kit for the Nikki 271070 fuel pump. At $125 it is not cheap. I confirmed with the company that the kit will work on all Nikki 271070 fuel pumps, regardless of the car model (as indicated in the article in the post above the 271070 pump was used in several different Datsun models.)

Here is a link to the rebuild kit.

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/nikki-fuel-pump-rebuilt-kit-for-prince-ha30-fairlady-s30-skyline-gc10-with-l20-l24-engine?variant=39616128811117

Happy Holidays 

Jim

The rebuild kit is cheap compared to finding yourself getting a tow truck after one of the recent aftermarket fuel pumps fail. 

Just a brief update on the rebuild. In the original article on how to rebuild your Nikki fuel pump it discusses how to replace the rubber oil seal in the lower pump housing. As you can see in the photo, The seal went into the opening in the lower housing and was secured by a retaining ring which snapped into the opening.

the rebuild kit form JDM uses a new design. The oil seal fits snuggly over the opening in the lower housing and then is secured by a retaining ring which is held in place by the pump spring.

Jim

 

I have a question regarding these old pumps, i got a 50 year old pump on my 240z and i asked myself.. now in this pandemic i use my cars less and less and the 240z starts right up and then after a few sec's suddenly stops.. i then need to clear the carb needle valves (just blow some air as the carbs are vented to the airbox)  and the fuel gets in the carb and the car fires right up.. (after a few weeks same story again..)   Can it be that i just need to change my fuelpump.. does anyone know what the pressure should be of such an old mech.pump? I think to replace the pump anyways as it's antique!  Or are my carb needle valves getting old and need new ones?  If i drive the car once a week it 's no problem... also asked myself if that damn "good" fuel 🙄 we have these days is the culprit? (no lubrication in the needle valves.)

 3 - 4 psi should work on most carbs. A fuel pressure and fuel volume test will tell you if the pump is working properly. I'd also pull the floats and needle valves and clean everything.

11 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

I'd also pull the floats and needle valves and clean everything.

I once cleaned the valves and they were not even dirty or so.. i think they have a bit of wear..  I will check the fuelpressure when i can and then i know what parts i need to replace, Thanks Mark!

I suspect the fuel. The newer Fuels are designed to atomize easier to make them burn cleaner. So the bowls are just drying out

 I hadn't thought of that. Removing a float bowl top and having a peek inside would confirm fuel evaporation.