. I was having an impossible time sealing SS kit from Classic tube . First off you need to check for burrs on the flares . The SS lines will destroy OEM fitting flares if they don’t match up well. I finally found these and they seem to have fixed the issue 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Parker-Degree-Fitting-Flare-Gasket/dp/B077NHZ98C

Thats why I asked earlier if they were stainless .  Stainless can be very difficult to seal, especially if the flares aren't perfect .

On 12/21/2021 at 1:45 AM, Zed Head said:

take a close look at the actual fluid sealing surfaces.

One tip i have..

Take your phone and go into the camera's "adjustments" put focus from autofucus on macro.. then take a picture from the connections insides and you can see MUCH more of the sealing surfaces..   Many times i have seen things this way on a picture that was not visable  in good lighting with the eyes..

When you make a picture sometimes you have to "click or tip" with your finger on the screen just to let the camera focus just before you make the picture!  You be amazed what you see this way!!  

Don't forget to put it back on autofocus later on..  and put that all revealing pic on here!! 🙂

 

Hi All,

All good info, thank for your input. Classic Tube sold me a single replacement line, understood there could be a bad line within the kit. .

Dutchzcarguy great tip with phone / camera when visibility is impossible without removing the entire block.

Cleaned up the internal cone and installed the new fitting/ line, leak gone :).

 

 

Super!

Hi All,

Getting close to turning the key with the new intake. Question about air temp sensor placement and fitment.

• Sensor Fitment - The air box is fiberglass see pic. Is there a source for plastic threaded sensor bungs that would glue into the box? 
• Sensor placement - Where would be the ideal air temp sensor placement, inlet or rear of the box?
• 4" air inlet, Has anyone routed a flex hoses through the front body/radiator brace? It's getting tight up front. Send pics please.

Thanks,