4 hours ago, Patcon said:

Be sure it well cured!

What does the Por15 liner product look like?

Hi Charles…..It’s a durable clear, rock hard coating that seals the tank. I highly recommend it.

Guy

Edited September 5, 20222 yr by Diseazd

4 hours ago, Diseazd said:

Hi Charles…..It’s a durable clear, rock hard coating that seals the tank. I highly recommend it.

Guy

It sounds like the Caswell material I used. Looked and smelled like two part epoxy.  Super hard when cured.

Well, the POR treatment looks amazing!  Very happy with the results (and glad that job is behind me!).  Tried to remove the downpipe? from the stock exhaust header today.  The nuts didn't feel too rusty, but they wouldn't budge with the only (1/4" drive) ratchet I had.  Picked up a larger ratchet, extension and swivel and will try again tomorrow.  Soaked them good with PB Blaster and will take a torch with me tomorrow as well.

While I was under the car, I noticed that the soft clutch line that connects the clutch slave and clutch hard line was cracked, so I started fiddling with it (I had a new replacement in my parts bin!).  The clips were completely rusted and I could not get things turning.  I finally got the compression nut to turn in the soft line but realized that the compression nut was frozen to the hard line and was twisting it.  Finally got the clip free, but could not get the compression nut to budge from the hard line, so it looks like I'll be ordering a new hard line.

I need to put one more coat of paint on the outside of my refurbished fuel tank in the morning, then I'll try and remove the exhaust again.  clutch hard line MIGHT make it here by the end of the week and the Unicoils I needed for the 180 degree bend vent hose from the tank will be here Thursday, so I may get her back on the road by next weekend. Fingers crossed.

It's false Fall in Georgia. That means for a while we will have cooler temperatures for a short while, followed up with a last blast of heat before true Fall. Anyway, the conditions were great for going to a Saturday morning car meet. As a matter of fact, the weather was so nice, several others decided to bring their Z cars out, too.

The two yellow 240Zs were purchased through BaT. One of the owners has been to a Georgia Z Club meeting, though I don't know if he joined, yet. I ended up diagnosing "lack of cabin heat" issues on both. The brown 280ZX and black gold AE are both owned by fellow GZC members. 

All I can say is that the 260Z felt great on the roads with the new inner LCA bushings. I need to consider doing more suspension work on the 240Z to keep pace.

Blackberry summer?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More images

 

 

 

 

Edited September 25, 20222 yr by siteunseen

Touge Con in Fayetteville AR was last Friday & Saturday.  A very fun event with a great turnout.  All jdm event with a underground vibe going on Friday night.  Lots of lights & music.

Main event took place at the 4 block town square, all reserved.

 

Went on a memorial cruise for a local car guy a few weeks ago and just found this photo posted. Nice photo of my car.

Well, it wasn't exactly what I did with my Z today...

I got up early today to drive over to help a new friend, Rico, diagnose his 73 240Z. He took it to a shop that may not have known what they were doing, and someone else had come over to look at his car without giving him a clear diagnosis. The car is relatively unmolested and still has the original flat tops. (That's for you, @Captain Obvious. )

I took out the plugs (fouled), and I broke out the compression gauge. The readings were 150-0-130-190-175-175. I removed the valve cover and bumped the engine to check the valve lash on cylinder 2. The exhaust was at 0.012 inches. The intake was more like 1 foot. (Okay, I didn't measure it precisely, but my 0.029 feeler cleared with room to bounce around.) Well, there's your problem. There was no way the camshaft was going to operate the valve. I tried to change the valve lash, but I wasted most of my effort trying to turn the wrong nut. (I'm SO out of practice on valve adjustments.) I did try to turn the jamb nut, but someone used about 20 ugga-duggas on it. I quit before turning the nut into a cylinder.

After shooting some video and photos, I woke up a friend & long-time Z wrench (He should have been up by 10:30 AM anyway to enjoy a glorious morning. 😁) to verify it wasn't anything worse than I thought. After receiving his wise counsel, I advised Rico of a suggested course of action and buttoned up the car. It was at that point when I found the plug wires were not arranged in proper firing order. I didn't notice that when I pulled off the wires, but it was VERY obvious as I was putting them back on the plugs. I did have Rico start the car, and it idled fine. I didn't attempt to lean out the carbs since I didn't want to risk anything with the one rocker able to just about dance around.

After the tools were safely back in my car, one of his neighbors asked if I might know what was wrong with his car. He said he had to pull the main fuse or else the "tail lights" would be on. So I went over and showed him how the switch on his brake pedal wasn't being actuated by the brake pedal. I love the softball questions.  

Here are the plugs:

#1 is on the right.

#6 is on the left.

Here's how loose the rocker is on #2.

 

Well, I have now officially disconnected everything from the engine and trans, except for the motor mount bolts and the one trans mount bolt.  Engine hoist and engine stand are at the ready.  I think I'll get the engine and trans pulled next weekend and get the trans split from the engine and off to the trans shop for rebuild.  Once I get the engine on the stand, I'll have my work cut out for me just getting the intake and exhaust manifolds off!  Once I get the engine stripped, I'll be crating it up and sending it off to Datsun Spirit for a nice little rebuild.  Next chore will be stripping the engine compartment, removing doors, fenders and rear hatch, then off to the body shop.  I've dreamed of this day for a long time and I am pretty darn excited.  After rising two sons and seeing them through college, I can't tell you how many times I put this refresh on hold due to life's other priorities and now it is becoming a reality.  Radiator will be back from the radiator shop tomorrow, looking spiffy, all repaired with a fresh coat of paint, and my brake booster should be done at Harmon Classic Brakes in a week.  I think I'll order new bumpers, fuel/brake and clutch hardlines and BRE spook and spoiler this evening.  I guess I am committed now! (or maybe my wife SHOULD commit me now!)  

7 minutes ago, astrohog said:

Well, I have now officially disconnected everything from the engine and trans, except for the motor mount bolts and the one trans mount bolt.  Engine hoist and engine stand are at the ready.  I think I'll get the engine and trans pulled next weekend and get the trans split from the engine and off to the trans shop for rebuild.  Once I get the engine on the stand, I'll have my work cut out for me just getting the intake and exhaust manifolds off!  Once I get the engine stripped, I'll be crating it up and sending it off to Datsun Spirit for a nice little rebuild.  Next chore will be stripping the engine compartment, removing doors, fenders and rear hatch, then off to the body shop.  I've dreamed of this day for a long time and I am pretty darn excited.  After rising two sons and seeing them through college, I can't tell you how many times I put this refresh on hold due to life's other priorities and now it is becoming a reality.  Radiator will be back from the radiator shop tomorrow, looking spiffy, all repaired with a fresh coat of paint, and my brake booster should be done at Harmon Classic Brakes in a week.  I think I'll order new bumpers, fuel/brake and clutch hardlines and BRE spook and spoiler this evening.  I guess I am committed now! (or maybe my wife SHOULD commit me now!)  

I recommend considering the purchase of an induction heater if you think the intake manifold might be a challenge. It could help you break some of those bolts loose.

3 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

I recommend considering the purchase of an induction heater if you think the intake manifold might be a challenge. It could help you break some of those bolts loose.

Would an induction heater be preferable over the old torch method?

3 minutes ago, astrohog said:

Would an induction heater be preferable over the old torch method?

It could have some challenges in tight spaces. However, if there is a lot of grease on the engine, it is less likely to catch it on fire. Where you can use it, it will work quickly. They have about a 2 minutes duty cycle.

Here's a video where I used mine on a sway bar end link: