Clutch slave cylinder

[Jeff G 78]

Is there enough room to fit it without the jam nut?  If so, you could use Loctite to keep the ball nut from vibrating and moving.

[Zed Head]

Seems like there is too much help in this thread.  But, I'll still add this.

p.s. the fact that the piston is deep in the bore means that the seal is tight or the bore is dry or both.  The spring should push it forward. (Actually, outward).

Edited January 20, 2022 by Zed Head

[EuroDat]

9 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Seems like there is too much help in this thread.  But, I'll still add this.

p.s. the fact that the piston is deep in the bore means that the seal is tight or the bore is dry or both.  The spring should push it forward.

His last photos are of the early (pre 73) type slave cylinder. You can see the tab next to the hose used as an anchor point for the spring. That early type slave cylinder does not have an internal spring.

The rod should fit with the lock nut and dome nut on the slave cylinder side of the clutch fork. If that is not the case then there is an issue with the geometry.

The first thing that comes to mind is a mis matched throw out bearing collar and pressure plate. These days it is a common probleem. Or the clutch fork has popped out of the spring clip and now not seated properly in the pivit ball in the bell housing.

 

@Wally You now have the correct slave cylinder for your clutch fork.

I would remove the slave cylinder and check the clutch fork is working correctly before going any further. Remove the rubber dust boot and check the pivot. If that is ok I would think about correctly the position of the nuts. Maybe cut more thread on the rod?

To adjust the push rod: Adjust the nut until no free play. Push the clutch peadal in two to three times to settle everything. Adjust nut to remove any free play. Then back the nut off 2 full turns. Lock the nut using the thin lock nut.  That will give you about 2.5 to 3mm play at the clutch fork - push rod. The bearing - pressure plate will then have about 2mm free play.

[Zed Head]

Just to rewind this back the very beginning - we all suggested that the piston be removed from the bore to check the seal so that the new one does not leak like the old one did. That was the original point of the thread, I think.  It has not been accomplished.

Wally is still talking about a plastic or steel cap when he's looking at the face of the piston that we want him to remove.  If there's no spring behind it then pressure can be used to pop it from the bore by applying air to the fluid inlet or bleed screw.  Overall, he might be installing another dirty slave cylinder.  A big circle with the same end result.

 

[EuroDat]

2 hours ago, Wally said:

I took it off and took a photo too. that round "rubber cap" is not what i thought. it is metal and i think supposed to be there like that. So, looks like all is well.

I this photo you are looking at the piston. Going by your remarks it looks like you have not removed the piston to check if everything is clean inside and free of any machine filings. I would do that before going any further.

You can push it out buy removing the two mounting bolts and pumping the clutch pedal slowly to push it out. When the piston comes out, disconnect the hose and clean the slave cylinder. Don't re-use the fluid that comes out as it could contain contaminants.

A lot going on in this thread. Also refering to Zed Heads comments: This thread started with a new leaking slave cylinder. That is the first issue that should be addressed.

 

[Wally]

here is video. You can see me easily pushing this in and it freely pops out when i move my finger. Looks like it working, at least now.

Good idea about just the nut and loctite. I have my thread kit out too...may see if i can add a couple threads to the bolt.

[Zed Head]

Not sure why but that link comes up as "item not found".  The best way to post videos is to make a youtube channel or upload them to Google Drive or Microsoft's OneDrive, then provide the link.