starter issue, wiring?

[Wally]

Hi all

sorry for being quiet so long. i had some work and family issues. I was able to get the car started. I still have some issues though.

1. it is idled WAY too high. Need some advice on that. have a short video so you can hear it. not sure if its still a timing issue, carb issue or what. 

i cant tell you the RPM bc the gauge isnt working. After a LOT of research i found that the ballast resistor is the likely culprit. i left it attached even 

after i put in the protonix ignition. Still not sure exactly how to correct it but i think this may be issue. 

2. the fusible link on starter. Something is wrong. I keep burning through these. After the video i made starting it the wire burned up again. i took a short 

video showing it and how i have it connected.

3. i also took a short video of the alternator's connection. 

I am really concerned about why the fusible links keep burning up. Not sure where to start to fix issue. Not sure if it matters but i was having a dickens of a time with the timing, distributor, protonoix ignition etc. i finally think i got it all. However, i am not sure if something wrong there could be causing this fuse to burn.

I had someone look at car when i wasnt around. They told me the alternator was pulling 18volts....not sure what that means. Also, i havent checked it out to verify. I upgrade alternator to

https://zcardepot.com/products/alternator-high-amp-80-240z-260z-280z?variant=19280584015985

 

thanks for any help

[siteunseen]

I bought a new alternator and didn't have it checked before installing. Found out after many problems it was back charging and popping my fuses. Went back to Advance and it tested bad. Got another one and tested it before leaving the store. All good since then.

[pogden]

Seems like your carbs need adjusting. It looks like the "fast idle screw" has some play (meaning, it's not the forcing the throttle mechanism open), which is good. Maybe just back the throttle adjustment screws on each carb off 1/4 turn at a time until the idle sounds right.

I'm not sure how the ballast resistor could cause a high idle - I think it functioned to allow a hotter spark during start, followed by a somewhat tamer spark for normal running. 

[SteveJ]

41 minutes ago, pogden said:

Seems like your carbs need adjusting. It looks like the "fast idle screw" has some play (meaning, it's not the forcing the throttle mechanism open), which is good. Maybe just back the throttle adjustment screws on each carb off 1/4 turn at a time until the idle sounds right.

I'm not sure how the ballast resistor could cause a high idle - I think it functioned to allow a hotter spark during start, followed by a somewhat tamer spark for normal running. 

Close, it was to keep the points from burning up.

[SteveJ]

Fusible link diagnostics:

It helps to have a DC clamp ammeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Auto-ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07Z398YWF

1. Test the voltage at the battery with the car off. Record the result.
2. Test the voltage at the battery with the car running. Record the result. Note: If it is above 15V at idle - there is your problem.
3. Test the current through the fusible link with the key in ON but car not running. Record the result. Note: If the meter shows a negative value, remove the clamp, face the meter in the opposite direction, and put it back over the fusible link.
4. Leaving the ammeter around the fusible link, test the current through the fusible link with the car running. Record the result. Note: The polarity of the current should change.

From this we should get a better idea of whether or not @siteunseen is putting you on the right path. If I have time, I'll make a short video to demonstrate.

Setting idle speed: You can buy a multimeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K or a fancy timing light like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8 (Yes, I have both.) You can even find a handheld tachometer, but I haven't used one myself.

[siteunseen]

1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

It helps to have a DC clamp ammeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Auto-ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07Z398YWF

I've always used that clamp as a "clip on to the hood spring holder".

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Close, it was to keep the points from burning up.

Isn't that what the condenser (capacitor) in the distributor is for?  The ballast is to keep the coil from burning up.  It's the thermomechanical version of "current-limiting" ignition modules.  Kettering.

[Zed Head]

4 hours ago, Wally said:

2. the fusible link on starter. Something is wrong. I keep burning through these. After the video i made starting it the wire burned up again.

When, exactly, does it "burn up"?  I remember your past threads.

Does it get hot when you connect the battery, or when you turn the key on, or when you turn the key to Start, or when the engine is running?  I would narrow it down to one of those four, it will tell you a lot.

[Wally]

3 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Fusible link diagnostics:

It helps to have a DC clamp ammeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Auto-ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07Z398YWF

1. Test the voltage at the battery with the car off. Record the result.
2. Test the voltage at the battery with the car running. Record the result. Note: If it is above 15V at idle - there is your problem.
3. Test the current through the fusible link with the key in ON but car not running. Record the result. Note: If the meter shows a negative value, remove the clamp, face the meter in the opposite direction, and put it back over the fusible link.
4. Leaving the ammeter around the fusible link, test the current through the fusible link with the car running. Record the result. Note: The polarity of the current should change.

From this we should get a better idea of whether or not @siteunseen is putting you on the right path. If I have time, I'll make a short video to demonstrate.

Setting idle speed: You can buy a multimeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K or a fancy timing light like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8 (Yes, I have both.) You can even find a handheld tachometer, but I haven't used one myself.

thanks. i will try to do this but it might take some time

[Wally]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

When, exactly, does it "burn up"?  I remember your past threads.

Does it get hot when you connect the battery, or when you turn the key on, or when you turn the key to Start, or when the engine is running?  I would narrow it down to one of those four, it will tell you a lot.

good question. it burns up when turning the key and cranking the engine up

[Zed Head]

The starter draws huge current.  It should draw through the main positive cable.  But it also needs a good ground.  Are you sure that the "fusible link" is on the positive side?  Or do you have it connected to the wrong terminal at the starter?  I'll see if I can see it in your video.

Anyway, it sounds like your starter circuit is the problem.

[Wally]

4 hours ago, pogden said:

Seems like your carbs need adjusting. It looks like the "fast idle screw" has some play (meaning, it's not the forcing the throttle mechanism open), which is good. Maybe just back the throttle adjustment screws on each carb off 1/4 turn at a time until the idle sounds right.

I'm not sure how the ballast resistor could cause a high idle - I think it functioned to allow a hotter spark during start, followed by a somewhat tamer spark for normal running. 

about the ballast resistor, i didn't mean it affects the idling. What i read was if you put in electronic ignition you should eliminate the ballast resistor but if you leave it hooked up their are some crossed signals somewhere that prevents the tachometer from registering activity....that could be all BS but i read that somewhere