starter issue, wiring?

[SteveJ]

@Zed Head is correct on the wiring.

Car yellow to new connector green

Car white/black to new connector yellow.

Here's a photo from my 73.

 

[Wally]

On 1/29/2022 at 2:04 PM, Zed Head said:

Top of the T which would be the (S)ense wire which would be the N wire which would be the yellow wire from the car harness.  Bottom of the T would be the (L)amp wire which would be the (F)ield wire which is the B(L)ue wire which should go to W/B on your car.  

Top of the T goes to yellow.  (Probably green in your picture).

Vertical of the T goes to W/B. (Probably yellow in your picture).

You took the picture in such a way that I can't be certain which is the top and which is the vertical.

Your initial thought seems backwards.  Also, where is the special conversion plug to allow an internally regulated alternator?

 

i will get an new image uploaded this week that has the conversion plug in it

[mailnome]

putting on new alternator that was machine confirmed as "good"
On front top adjustment bolt there is a gap between bolt and metal slot. I can tighten it up but it bends the black metal slot. This 
cant be normal. Should i put a spacer of some in there?

I only have a ZX to look at but in comparison the bracket is backwards.

On mine it is flipped over. It sits on the outside where it bolts to the motor and bolts to the backside of the alternator, not the front like you have.

Not the best pic but it’s all I could find




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SteveJ]

I think this illustrates @mailnome's point.

[Wally]

here are a few images. I think everything is hooked back up properly with the new, working alternator. I am concerned about the wiring harness for the voltage 

regulator. I have i capped off as you can see but there is a wire that is snipped off. I didnt do this the car came like that. So i am wondering if it needs to be connected back to the 

harness side of the plug> there are 2 open spots. The corner spot has nothing there and looks like it never did. The open middle though looks to have a connector in there......

so it is possible this wire broke off or something.

[SteveJ]

13 minutes ago, Wally said:

here are a few images. I think everything is hooked back up properly with the new, working alternator. I am concerned about the wiring harness for the voltage 

regulator. I have i capped off as you can see but there is a wire that is snipped off. I didnt do this the car came like that. So i am wondering if it needs to be connected back to the 

harness side of the plug> there are 2 open spots. The corner spot has nothing there and looks like it never did. The open middle though looks to have a connector in there......

so it is possible this wire broke off or something.

It looks like someone snipped the white wire for some reason. The white wire will need to be connected to the yellow wire. You could pull the yellow wire out of the connector and use male/female bullet connectors to connect the yellow wire to the white wire.

Here's the guide I started with 22 years ago. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html

[Wally]

Ok So leave the other 3 wires in the motorsports cap off plug and leave it connected right?

[SteveJ]

11 minutes ago, Wally said:

Ok So leave the other 3 wires in the motorsports cap off plug and leave it connected right?

The MSA cap has a diode that runs between the black/white and white/black, otherwise the lamp circuit will backfeed your ignition. It does not have any wires, so I don't understand your question. You need to hook up the yellow to the white, otherwise you will not get the battery sensing voltage. This will result in overcharging.  

[Wally]

52 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

The MSA cap has a diode that runs between the black/white and white/black, otherwise the lamp circuit will backfeed your ignition. It does not have any wires, so I don't understand your question. You need to hook up the yellow to the white, otherwise you will not get the battery sensing voltage. This will result in overcharging.  

Sorry i didnt ask that well. I understand what you are telling me to do. Was just curious if i put that snipped wire back into the wiring harness like i think it should be would that also do the trick

[SteveJ]

21 minutes ago, Wally said:

Sorry i didnt ask that well. I understand what you are telling me to do. Was just curious if i put that snipped wire back into the wiring harness like i think it should be would that also do the trick

Yes, if you put it in the right location. Make sure you have the proper open barrel locking terminal. The ones from Vintage Connections would work.

[Wally]

went ahead with splice instead of ordering new connector. 3 wires are still in the upgrade adapter. i did connect the white with the yellow wire as advised. from what i read things are correct. There is that long black with white stripe

wire going off this harness area towards the front bumper.....will try to see what that is tomorrow. have done enough damage for one day 🙂

[SteveJ]

Testing before running:

With the battery connected and key OFF, measure voltage to ground at the S terminal (crossbar). It should read battery voltage. Measure voltage to ground at the L terminal (vertical). It should be 0.

With the battery connected and key ON (not running), measure voltage to ground at the L terminal. It should be battery voltage. It could be a little less due to corrosion/poor connections.