Changing your name on this topic/site isn't gonna help "Johnny" .. time after time people helped you and said the engine needs to come apart and then you ask questions in a different way but essentually the same questions.. the engine isn't gonna fix itself..  I don't want to gravel/irritate you..  but you need to listen to the advice!

I'm not going to waste more time on this..

 Don't cut the choke cables. Loosen both cable attachment screws at the carbs. Push and pull the choke lever a few times. Is it easy or difficult to operate? If it's difficult, lube the cable and lever mechanism with oil. I pulled the carb end of the cables up, and sprayed WD 40 or CRC lube into the cable sheath ends and let gravity pull the lube down along the length of the cables. Then I looked to see if both nozzles were all the way up, pushed the choke knob forward and connected the cables to the carbs. Good luck and tell your Dad not to worry about the Canal.

Decided to move to Spain and take the datsun with me! Hope i find a good friend or mechanic to help me with the california datsun engine. Anyway i just received new seals, stainless steel valves, guides ans gaskets. Anyone here wants me to carry out a last test before removing the head?

Choke issue was solved with a vise grip straightening the cable where it fastens to the front carb.

On 1/26/2025 at 9:05 AM, Mark Maras said:

 Don't cut the choke cables. Loosen both cable attachment screws at the carbs. Push and pull the choke lever a few times. Is it easy or difficult to operate? If it's difficult, lube the cable and lever mechanism with oil. I pulled the carb end of the cables up, and sprayed WD 40 or CRC lube into the cable sheath ends and let gravity pull the lube down along the length of the cables. Then I looked to see if both nozzles were all the way up, pushed the choke knob forward and connected the cables to the carbs. Good luck and tell your Dad not to worry about the Canal.

Mark,

Tomorrow we will test the car under heavy traffic to see if it starts fouling cylinder 4. I contacted a resurfacing machine shop and they want to charge usd65 just for inspection and 700usd top if the engine needs resurface and installing valve, guides and seals.

They say the head needs to be fully inspected before quoting any fees. 

 

 I like the fact that they want to inspect the head before quoting a fee. I'm assuming you'd have to take them the cyl. head. Who will be removing and replacing the head?

2 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 I like the fact that they want to inspect the head before quoting a fee. I'm assuming you'd have to take them the cyl. head. Who will be removing and replacing the head?

Ive got 2 mechanics. One will charge 150usd and do it in my parking. The other wants usd 360 in his shop. Are there any special considerations when removing the head? Torque measurement?

 Depending on the mechanic's expertise, I'd lean towards the mechanic with a shop. If you have a Z repair manual, it will guide you through the head removal and replacement process.

This is about the best tutorial I've ever seen. It's a 280 which is a little more difficult than pulling the head on a 240.

 

1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

This is about the best tutorial I've ever seen. It's a 280 which is a little more difficult than pulling the head on a 240.

 

Bottomline after getting stuck in traffic for 15 minutes Temp needle raised to 3/4 on the gauge as shown in the pictures. Mechanic noticed the car started hesitating when getting away from traffic which is not normal. Anyway, he also noticed the coil was very hot and considered the following:

1. Get a new coil. This one is a petronix 1.5 ohms tied to a ballast resistor and petronix module. He said get a Bosch. Shouldnt i order a new petronix 1.5 ohm resistor? Does it matter?

2. Remove the radiator, inspect and flush

3. Get a fan clutch with more blades

If this does not solve the problem then open the head cylinder and take it to the resurface shop who will charge usd400 for the job.

Do you guys concur?

I suggest verifying that the engine is actually heating up beyond normal temps by checking it with a laser temp gun.  After a complete restoration of my car, my temp gauge is reading higher than yours, but the temps at various locations on the head and thermostat housing are 175 to 195.  I plan to remove the gauge and adjust it's reading by changing the position of a certain "adjustment" screw inside the gauge. 

My gauge reads just like yours, needle lines up on the right side of the M but like everyone else's it isn't too hot. It's the gauge.

Those laser temperature guns work good but if you don't have one a meat thermometer worked for me. This is idling in my garage, thermostat open and flowing coolant.

I see your choke light is off. Glad you got that fixed.

 

Edited February 1Feb 1 by siteunseen