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Ignition Diagram for 240Z with L28 Motor


HappyZ

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I searched and searched but couldn't find my topic.

I just installed an L28 (from 1978 280Z) in my 1971 240Z.  The L28 has an early points distributor.  It also has an uprated alternator with internal regulator.  Other than that, it's wired for a 240Z.

I want to replace the points distributor with an electronic distributor for a '78 280Z.  

QUESTION:  Is there a diagram that depicts my configuration?  Do I keep the tach in the diagram, do I need a different coil, timing insights.  Any help is truly appreciated.

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4 hours ago, HappyZ said:

The L28 has an early points distributor.

Why  change? Unless you drive 20k miles a year..   I drove 20k Km's in 20 years and on 1 !!  set of points! hahaha.. it's a reliable system, i personnally think it's even better than the electronic sh*t thats in my 280.... (Just check that your capacitor is in good condition.. put in a new one for a dollar!! or 3... 😉 )

newer is not always better! Also the rev counter needs a signal that is different from the 280z stuff.. (i heard..)  so why bother!

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14 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Why  change? Unless you drive 20k miles a year..   I drove 20k Km's in 20 years and on 1 !!  set of points! hahaha.. it's a reliable system, i personnally think it's even better than the electronic sh*t thats in my 280.... (Just check that your capacitor is in good condition.. put in a new one for a dollar!! or 3... 😉 )

newer is not always better! Also the rev counter needs a signal that is different from the 280z stuff.. (i heard..)  so why bother!

Wow, I think this may be your most uninformed post, yet.

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1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

Wow, I think this may be your most uninformed post, yet.

I think i heared some bad things here about the ignition unit of the 280z here... and when i look at the Zero problems i got with my 240z ignition.. (this is a old one with contacts) i thought, why change? 

So... what should I install then, does it really work better and is it reliable because thats the most important thing to me.. RELIABILITY !!

(If someone is going to say buy a pertronix.. i say: i don't want that sh*t in my car!!! not reliable as i saw people do have trouble with them.)

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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7 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

I think i heared some bad things here about the ignition unit of the 280z here... and when i look at the Zero problems i got with my 240z ignition.. (this is a old one with contacts) i thought, why change? 

So... what should I install then, does it really work better and is it reliable because thats the most important thing to me.. RELIABILITY !!

(If someone is going to say buy a pertronix.. i say: i don't want that sh*t in my car!!! not reliable as i saw people do have trouble with them.)

Wow, doubling down. Yeah, points NEVER fail. They are so fantastic that automakers still use them on cars today. LOL

The 280Z ignition box is so unreliable that it only lasts 40+ years. A 240Z owner would have had to replace those "reliable" points many times over in that time.

Did you know there are highly reliable replacements for the TIU? Apparently not from your answer. The OP could use an HEI module with the 280Z distributor. It has been well documented here and elsewhere. And he would not need to replace the tachometer, though he could if needed for other reasons.

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Thanks to all for responding.  I guess I’ll should have asked what do I need to do to convert from point driven L28 to electronic ignition.  I’m a believer in both systems, but I’ve have had great luck with electric on other cars.

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1 hour ago, HappyZ said:

Thanks to all for responding.  I guess I’ll should have asked what do I need to do to convert from point driven L28 to electronic ignition.  I’m a believer in both systems, but I’ve have had great luck with electric on other cars.

Look up the GM HEI conversion for the ignition. The 280Z distributor can trigger it. You will need to ground the HEI to the chassis to complete the path to ground. That's usually done by securing the HEI to the inner fender. With the 280Z distributor and HEI, you would not need the ballast resistor. Just connect the wires together. If you're worried about reliability, you can just keep a spare HEI in the glove box. I believe there are threads on this board about using a coil designed for an HEI module, but I do not have experience with that.

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This one is a good start for the 240Z's.  Some people have tachometer problems when they switch to electronic ignition, but others don't.  

Always a good idea to study the instructions and understand what each wire does before beginning.  It's tempting to just follow the instructions and match wire colors but often there is a step missing or just not quite right.

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html

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p.s. The early 280Z electronic ignition was really not much better than points, the spark strength was the same but it was lower maintenance.  1978 is when they introduced the stronger ignition module.  The GM HEI module is high energy and durable.  It was used for decades.

Make sure the 280Z distributor is in good shape.  Most of them have rusted/corroded/gummed up vacuum advance breaker plates and/or blown vacuum advance diaphragms.

But, you're probably running carbs, so you might not use the vacuum advance, many people don't.  If so, you might want to just lock the breaker plate so it doesn't move on its own and cause timing to change.

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