Starter Relay (77 280z A/T)

[MH77280Z]

Hi Friends,

Sometimes when i turn the ignition On-Start etc. the starter do not engage. It is like there is no current flowing to it.

I then back off the key and turn it ON again and after 2 try or sometimes 3rd try the starter gets engaged.

Mine is a A/T so there is a seat belt relay which is also involved and I have the seat belt hooked.

Have anyone seen this? where can the issue be? I feel one of the relays is not getting energized? what you guys think?

Starter is rebuilt and I am hoping it is not a starter/solenoid issue.

[SteveJ]

The first thing to do is see if you're getting voltage to the solenoid. You can disconnect the wire from the solenoid and measure voltage to ground on that wire while someone is turning the key to start. If it's not getting voltage to the solenoid, they you know it's before solenoid (and rule out the starter for the time being).

Two likely culprits are the ignition switch itself and the seat belt relay not behaving.

It might be a matter of making a jumper plug for the seat belt relay. Disconnect the relay from the wiring harness and take photos of the relay and the harness. Take notes on the wire colors (including stripe) of the wires in the harness and which pin on the connector. Share that here, and I can probably give you instructions on bypassing the seat belt relay.

[MH77280Z]

On 2/12/2022 at 2:34 PM, SteveJ said:

The first thing to do is see if you're getting voltage to the solenoid. You can disconnect the wire from the solenoid and measure voltage to ground on that wire while someone is turning the key to start. If it's not getting voltage to the solenoid, they you know it's before solenoid (and rule out the starter for the time being).

Two likely culprits are the ignition switch itself and the seat belt relay not behaving.

It might be a matter of making a jumper plug for the seat belt relay. Disconnect the relay from the wiring harness and take photos of the relay and the harness. Take notes on the wire colors (including stripe) of the wires in the harness and which pin on the connector. Share that here, and I can probably give you instructions on bypassing the seat belt relay.

@SteveJ what i had noticed was when u start the ignition, sometimes starter solenoid engages and sometimes not. Also the current draw I can feel was low. Today I had received a new ignition switch module and have tested it. It is night and day difference in terms of how the engine cranks. Changing the ignition switch and continue to operate for few more days and see if relays have any issues.

Also, I am planning to get rid of those sheer screws on the new ignition switch module, not sure if there is a specific purpose for those?

I am using a dremel to cut a slot on those to hopefully take them out safely and put standard screws in the new.

 

[SteveJ]

After I read the first sentence, I was thinking, "Change the ignition switch." I'm glad it's working for you. The sheer screws are there to deter theft...for a minute or less. You'd have better luck pulling the rotor out of the distributor or pocketing the fuel injection relay to discourage a thief without a tow truck.

[MH77280Z]

3 hours ago, SteveJ said:

After I read the first sentence, I was thinking, "Change the ignition switch." I'm glad it's working for you. The sheer screws are there to deter theft...for a minute or less. You'd have better luck pulling the rotor out of the distributor or pocketing the fuel injection relay to discourage a thief without a tow truck.

Starting is MUCH better. The ignition relay on the passenger side do make a decent amount of clicking noise though. Is it normal or sign of going bad?

[SteveJ]

Probably not. You're just hearing the contacts moving when the coil in the relay is energized or de-energized. If it sounds more like someone generating Morse code, then it would be a sign something is wrong,.

[MH77280Z]

Just for the broader community: I followed this video and was able to remove the sheer screws, the one closer to the dash for me was a bit too close and i did damage the dash a bit but my dash is already has lot of cracks.

After removing the entire key and ignition assembly i realized you can probably leave the front key unit on and can remove the ignition assembly only from the back where the wiring harness hooks into - it is the round thing that screws at the back of the key assembly with 2 small screws.

Also, there were two wires on the original key assembly which were not there on the new one (part of the buzzer circuit if door is left open and key is still in ignition). You might want to keep the original key slot and just replace the ignition module from the back. It is much easy without having to go through the hassle of taking these sheer screws out.

Thanks.